On November 14, 2014, Jeanette and I began our week-long journey to Lake Titicaca. It was my second and Jeanette’s first visit to that magical lake. Because of this, I limited my photos to mostly only include things I had not done before. For more photos of Lake Titicaca, you can check out my previous photo blogs.
This photo blog contains 164 photos from the trip, including all but our final day at the lake.
As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.
CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION
Preparing To Go
With only a couple of days to prepare between our Lares Hot Springs trip and our Lake Titicaca trip, both Jeanette and I were very busy.
I am thrilled that Jeanette took this photo of me at my computer. It is the only photo I have of me using this computer, and this is one of the last times I was able to use it while fully functioning. It seems that all things electronic in my life were suddenly falling apart. My cell phone disappeared a few weeks later. My internet stopped working on the first of November (and was out for nearly 6 weeks), and my computer monitor completely failed while at Lake Titicaca … just to name a few of the mysterious events.
Of course, part of preparing for Lake Titicaca was resting and enjoying the spectacular views by the river.
But the main preparations were laundry and a little advance food preparation.
My right wrist was still quite weak since my cast had only been off for about four weeks. Jeanette was so kind to volunteer to do all of our laundry, including some of mine that had been piling up for a while (since I was unable to do much of anything during September and October).
There are no laundromats in Calca. I either have to do my laundry myself, or hire someone to wash it by hand for me. I felt very blessed for Jeanette’s assistance.
Some of our clothes hanging out to dry.
Luxury Travel
Early on the morning of November 14, 2014, we boarded a minivan from Calca to Cusco, arriving in Cusco at about 6:45 a.m.. Then, after a quick taxi ride to the bus terminal, we waited and waited. Finally, a man told us that our “Tour Peru” bus was cancelled due to mechanical problems, and that our tickets were being transferred to another bus line – one called “Transzela”. It was a luxury bus, and they gave us the best seats on the bus….
This is me in front of our luxury bus with the company “Transzela”. We each paid 40 soles for our tickets (about $14 US) for the seven-hour journey from Cusco to Puno, which is the main Peruvian city on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
Jeanette also posing in front of our bus. It is a double-decker bus with luxury seats throughout.
I stood in the aisle to get this photo of Jeanette enjoying her large leather recliner. My seat is the one just beside her. Behind me, on the right side of the bus is a single recliner.
Yes, this entire bus is filled with such plush recliners, each row having two on one side and one on the other.
And we happen to be on the front row upstairs, with a gorgeous panoramic view to enjoy.
Looking from the front of the bus toward the back. Two seats on the right and one seat on the left.
Part of the Cusco “Terminal Terrestre” (ground terminal) where most buses come and go.
Kicking back with our feet on the little ledge at the front of the bus. If only the windows were a tiny bit cleaner. What a way to travel!!!
Our new friend Shenaz, enjoying her side of the front row. The three of us talked throughout the seven-hour journey. We never would have met if “Tour Peru” hadn’t cancelled their bus.
Passing a herd of sheep.
A cow by the side of the road.
A woman and man doing their daily chores.
A majestic old mansion along the road.
Passing over a 14,000 foot mountain pass.
Later that evening, after arriving in Puno, we found an inexpensive hostel, enjoyed a delightful meal in a restaurant near the center of Puno, and got a semi-restful sleep.
Early on the morning of November 15, 2014, we were up and catching a taxi back to the bus station by around 6:00 a.m., and soon we were on our way to the Bolivia side of Lake Titicaca.
Above is the only photo I took on this second bus trip. Our adventures at the border were exhausting. They would not let Jeanette into Bolivia without her Visa application already filled out, and they would not give us any blank forms. We had to rush into a nearby Peruvian town, find an internet cafe, print off the forms, and rush back to the border (in a little tuk-tuk) while Jeanette hurriedly filled out the forms. Luckily, our bus waited for us.
Finally, they gave Jeanette a visa and we were traveling the final fifteen minutes to the quiet little Bolivian town of Copacabana, on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
Lake Titicaca Day 1
After checking into a beach-side hotel for about $40 US per night, we decided to take advantage of the afternoon sun, and get out on the lake as soon as possible.
A local boat captain told us that we could do a short few-hour tour out to the floating islands on the Bolivia side of the lake. Having never been there, and craving a boat ride, we eagerly took the opportunity. The sky was beautiful, with plenty of sun.
It was a private tour, and this sweet gentleman and members of his extended family shared the cost with us. He was a delightful man, really fun to talk to. I think he had a crush on both of us.
Me, with the same gentleman. He insisted on getting photos with us.
Jeanette and I together, on top of the boat over open waters.
When we arrived at our destination, I was not surprised to see a group of little islands all floating on empty plastic containers and Styrofoam, connected to the shore via long floating docks.
This photo fascinated me. I had frequently noticed funny chain-link cages out in Lake Titicaca near the shoreline. I had begun to assume that these must be some type of fish farming.
Today, that suspicion was confirmed, as these little floating islands were surrounded by trout farming. If you look closely at the photo above, the netted area is filled with trout.
Some of the trout cages.
Another trout cage. You can see a huge number of trout circling around in there. We watched with fascination as a young man came to feed them. Suddenly, as he threw in food, the calm water turned into boiling water from all the feeding activity.
More of the fish.
A bird’s-eye view of the island where we stopped. It is totally artificial, made of wood and floating materials, with a tiny sprinkling of hay-like grass on top. You can see all of the fish cages scattered all over.
Looking over at a couple of the other islands.
It was a fun boat ride, including a little hike up a large rock (where I stood when taking this and the previous photos) — but the islands themselves are nothing more than a cheap knock-off imitation of the real Uros floating islands up by Puno.
The sun was close to setting as our stay on the island was coming to a close.
This fish cage had a net to cover the top.
A reed boat on a neighboring island.
Beginning our return journey to Copacabana.
Later that evening, we watched the sunset from our hotel window.
It was dark and magical.
Lake Titicaca Day 2
After getting up early on November 16, 2014, we walked down to the boat dock at 8:00 a.m., and began our second day on the lake. This would be a boat ride out to the southern end of the Island of the Sun.
Even with the warmth of a bright sun, travel on the lake can be very freezing. Both Jeanette and I were prepared.
Jeanette, all ready for the cold as we wait to leave the dock.
And me, looking all dorky, but very warm with multiple layers.
That blue and white building is our hotel (Lago Azul) … and the hill behind is called “Calvario” (Calvary Hill). We will go up there in a few days.
The left end of Calvary Hill reminds me of a large gorilla face, looking to the left.
Finally, we are underway. It is a gorgeous day.
Looking back at the shoreline.
Everyone is bundling up now.
Approaching a small passage that saves a few minutes as a shortcut. We have been traveling for about an hour now, and are only about half way to our destination.
Now back in open waters, we head for the “Island of the Sun” in the distance.
This little child didn’t look very happy.
Soon, we had a gorgeous view of the Island of the Moon with the majestic “Cordillero” mountain range in the background.
Remember that the surface of Lake Titicaca is already at around 12,400 feet above sea level. These are tall mountains.
More Island of the Moon with the Cordillero mountains in the background.
Jeanette, climbing the “Escalinatas Yumani” (Yumani Staircase). It is extremely difficult to climb at this altitude.
Similar photo, less zoom.
A young boy fills his water bottle at the water springs that pour out near the top of the rock staircase.
A Llama (or alpaca?) near the top of the staircase.
A really fluffy alpaca.
An old church that I didn’t remember seeing on my previous visit.
I absolutely love the beauty of this San Pedro cactus (Huachuma) in full glorious bloom.
A closeup of the gorgeous and huge white blossoms.
We soon walked for more than an hour to reach the top of a nearby hill where there is a beautiful lookout area. I found this heart-shaped patch of grass and took a photo for my friend Susan.
Looking from the top toward the south. You can see part of the trail that spans the length of the island.
Jeanette on top of the lookout tower.
Looking to the east toward the Island of the Moon.
Later, as we walked back toward the town of Yumani, I found this spiral. We had fun playing here.
Pack mules are critical here. The hills are so steep, and there are no roads on the island. They carry most of their supplies up the mountain on these mules.
A neat-looking wall on top of the island.
Loved this little guy. He is so fluffy from all that fur. I think this is an alpaca, and soon, that fur will be sheared off and used to make yarn.
Such a cute face.
Posing for one more photo.
I watched them building this reed boat when I was here in June. It looks complete now.
This is a traditional boat in these waters.
we took a walk along the shoreline, looking for a place to sit and meditate. We passed this place where someone was drying their laundry. I love this traditional skirt.
Finally, we are back on the boat for our return journey back to Copacabana.
I was delighted when the boat stopped at the Sun Temple on the southern end of the island. I had wanted to go up there in June, but had missed my opportunity.
I ran up to the temple and quickly took photos on our ten-minute stop. It was nothing more than a lot of tiny dark rooms. I took this with a flash, looking into one of the rooms.
Looking from the Sun Temple, back toward our boat (on the right side).
Inside of a different room. There was not much to see here, and I didn’t have time to stop and “feel” the energy.
The entrance to one of the rooms.
On my way back to the boat. Most people stayed on the boat, and I didn’t want to get left behind. When I was here in June, I stayed on the boat, and we almost left several people behind because the captain was impatient.
The bright afternoon sun glaring over the top of this little “Sun Temple” … this is the most prominent Inca structure on the island.
The half-way mark on our return boat ride.
After returning to Copacabana, we enjoyed the evening strolling around Copacabana and filling our tummies in a local restaurant.
Lake Titicaca Day 3
Early on November 17, 2014, we again met at the boat dock to embark on our second journey to the Island of the Sun. Today, we are going to the north end of the island to enjoy some beach time on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
Just over two hours into our boat ride, as we continued north along the side of the Island of the Sun, we unexpectedly found ourselves nose-diving right into an oncoming wave. We were on top of one swell headed down as another swell came toward us. Suddenly, the nose of our boat was under the oncoming wave and water rushed up over the top front of the boat, completely covering these glass windows and even splashing up on top of the boat. There are some openings around these windows, and these people sitting in the front area were drenched by water that poured through the openings.
Even Jeanette and I got a little wet. It was quite the adrenaline rush.
These stunned guys are now drying themselves off.
Finally, after about 3 hours on the lake, we land at the little village of Challapampa. We have been craving beach time, and this beautiful beach sits on the edge of Challapampa. It is real sand, but has a lot of rocks and debris mixed in as well.
It was quite cool out, so we didn’t strip down to our bathing suits, but we loved the sun anyway.
Jeanette enjoying the beach.
Some type of gull enjoying the cold waters of this high-altitude lake.
A fascinating tree just above the beach area.
Two young boys playing around a beached boat.
My little altar area.
And finally, as the time passed way too quickly, we return to our boat (the small one in the center).
This is the bathroom building on the beach.
Turning around and looking in the other direction up the beach. This is not the same beach on which we sat for a few hours. This is on the southern side of Challapampa.
A sign on the beach near the boats.
Several large pigs were freely exploring the area.
A couple of other large pigs near the water.
A very zoomed-in photo looking across the bay toward the town of Challa. I did not know it then, but I will hike to that beach over there when I return for a visa run in February.
A similar photo, taken without the zoom. Challa is not as close as it looks in the previous photo.
On the way home, after a short stop on the south end of the Island of the Sun, we hugged the shores of the mainland as we got closer to Copacabana. Here are some fish cages near the shore.
Heading south along the shores of the mainland.
Jeanette enjoying the magical journey. It was a lot warmer on our way back.
But I was still cold.
Soon, I begin to unzip my coat … feeling a tiny bit warmer.
To our surprise, this particular tour boat stopped at those fake “floating islands” that we had visited earlier.
I was standing on top of those large rocks to the right when I took photos two days ago.
After a long stop here on these floating islands, we again returned to Copacabana and enjoyed a fun relaxing evening, eating and exploring.
Lake Titicaca Day 4
Early morning, on November 18, 2014, we went for a hike to the top of “Calvario” … the Calvary Hill that I pointed out in an earlier photo. This is a Catholic Shrine, with lots of sacred symbolism for the people who worship after this tradition.
When we reached the top, we decided to light a few candles in a sheltered area where other candles were also lit.
Jeanette, lighting her candles.
My candle burning.
Still lighting them.
I decided to light some other mostly-burned candles that were already there (It felt right to do this).
Looking down from Calvary Hill, back toward the beach area of Copacabana.
Some of the shrines on top this little hill.
An unexpected Copacabana sunset.
We had planned to cross the border and go back to Puno, on the Peru side today. Our bus was schedule to leave at 1:00 p.m., but as we arrived at the little travel agency that sold us the tickets, we were informed that there was a strike on the Peru side, before Puno, and that the roads were barricaded and manned with people who would throw rocks and glass at the bus if it tried to pass.
In December, I experienced a similar strike right in Calca, in front of my own house, where barricades were built. At the time on Nov 18, I had no idea what was happening. It was some labor dispute, and is apparently quite common in Peru.
So, to make a long story short, we returned to our hotel, after having already checked out, and we checked in again, making plans to stay for two more days.
Another sunset photo on this unexpected extended stay.
Lake Titicaca Day 5
Not sure about what we wanted to do, we decided to take another tour to the south end of the Island of the Sun – but it was a tour that would first take us to the Island of the Moon. I had tried to make it to the Island of the Moon in June, but the tour agencies were not going to the Island of the Moon then because of low tourist volume.
So, at 8:30 a.m. on November 19, 2014, we are again on board yet-another boat.
Jeanette, enjoying the blissful ride.
After a two hour journey and a stop at the Island of the Sun to drop off passengers, our boat is finally headed toward the Island of the moon (in the distance).
Approaching the north end of the Island of the Moon (this is taken with a large zoom).
Looking back at the Island of the Sun.
Getting closer … with less zoom.
Going around the north end of the island.
Zoomed-in view of the north end.
Near the shore, the water was extremely clear. These rocks are quite deep.
Traveling south along the eastern shores of the Island of the Moon.
Looking east toward the Cordillero mountains (big zoom).
A view of ancient temples on the Island of the Moon, taken from the boat with a full zoom.
Approaching the boat dock.
Getting closer.
The dock here has an interesting “roll out” extension.
A sign for the “Temple of the Virgins” … the Island of the Moon is the smaller and feminine partner of the masculine Island of the sun.
Approaching the Temple of the Virgins on foot.
Another side of the temple complex.
Jeanette, preparing to enter.
Jeanette, posing inside.
One of the walls.
A different perspective of the same.
A little altar that someone left in a small room.
More offerings left in a small alcove.
Entrance to the room where the altars are placed.
Jeanette, enjoying the view and the magical energy here.
We loved the energy of this island and stayed here for as long as we could. Unfortunately the boat captain only let us stay for one hour.
The wall on the other end, partially restored with a little adobe clay.
Same wall, different perspective.
Looking across toward the first wall.
Jeanette enjoying her time on that little bench.
Me in front of the second wall.
Another one with me in it.
I eventually set up my own meditation space in the middle of the ruins, across the field from Jeanette.
Finally, we reluctantly had to leave. This is a view of the Cordilleros in the distance, with a little hut on the mountainside (upper right).
Another sign that we passed on the way out.
This wooden sign reads “Path to the community Warmi-Thakhi”
A sign marking the exit path back to the boat.
Walking back toward the dock.
I had not seen this before. It is an Inca Wall below the ruins that we visited.
Down the steps to the boat.
Some cacti along the trail down to the boat. That tall tree-like plant on the right side of the trail is a cactus.
A closeup of that tall tree-like cactus.
Looking back at the dock as we begin to float away.
As we look toward the north end of the island, we are surprised to see this mirage effect of the sky covering parts of the land.
Another image of the mirage effect.
After a short ride, we are now approaching the Island of the Sun.
Getting closer to Yumani. I have never seen it from this angle.
And even closer.
Today, that traditional reed boat was tied up at the main docks.
Jeanette and I sat on this rocky beach to meditate and wait for the boat that would take us back to Copacabana.
Jeanette in her own meditative space.
That reed boat taking off for an adventure.
Looking out over the water toward the Island of the Moon.
And zooming in for another photo of the Cordillero range.
Taking the traditional reed boat out for a spin.
And another perspective.
This cloud above the Cordilleros looked like a dog facing to the right with its mouth open.
Jeanette took this silhouette photo of me as we headed back to Copacabana.
And another one, with the afternoon sun glowing brilliantly at my back.
This concludes “Part 1” of the photos from our Lake Titicaca Trip. The next photo post will document the final day of this trip, plus more adventures back in Calca and Cusco.
I hope you enjoyed taking the journey with us.
Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved