Photos – Paracas To Lima – April 2015

May 15th, 2015

On Saturday, April 25, 2015, I get up early and take a taxi to the bus station. It is going to be another full day … with the bus ride today only lasting a few hours. I will be traveling from Nazca, slightly to the north, and back west to the Pacific Coast. My destination is Paracas.

The first part of this post documents my bus journey. Next, I share my experiences of the first day, then the second. Finally, I end this blog with a few photos from Lima, which was my destination after Paracas.

This post includes 174 photos in total. As always, I include detailed story narratives describing the adventures.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

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I bought my bus tickets at the same travel agency that sold me my dune buggy tour yesterday … riding on another luxury bus from Oltursa. I was happy to again be able to choose a seat on the very front row of the upper deck.

In this photo, we are driving through Nazca.

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A huge sand dune near the town of Ica.

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The area of Ica is known for its vineyards. This photo shows one of thousands of those vineyards (on the left). Sorry about the quality of these photos … the bus windows were quite dirty.

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More vineyards. They build some kind of trellis to support the vines.

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… zooming in on the same field.

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The nicer buses here in Peru almost always show movies. I was lucky that the movies were good ones …

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This area is still very dry, but apparently has access to some water to keep the vineyards growing.

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Driving through the town of Ica. I thought about spending a day or two here, but just didn’t feel it in my heart.

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Nearing the turnoff to Paracas.

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And finally, driving into this little beach town.

I quickly called a hostel and made a reservation, asking how to get there. Their directions were very confusing, even though I soon discovered I was only a block and a half away. Finally, I was checked in at just a few minutes before 10:00 a.m. …

When I asked about tours to the “Islas Ballestas” … I was told that they had one leaving right now. I giggled and said yes. I ran back to my room to gather a few things, scurried down to the lobby, and five minutes later I was being escorted to the dock to join a larger group …

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Our boat was waiting for us, but for an unknown reason (to me) there was a long delay  …

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A different boat loaded up while we continued to wait.

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Looking back toward the town of Paracas (and the beach) … as seen from the boat dock.

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A pelican enjoying himself.

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Another boat leaving while we still wait. I read in the tour book that the two Ballestas Islands are compared by some as being the Peruvian equivalent of The Gallapagos Islands. I don’t know about that, but am eager for the boat ride.

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Finally, it is our turn to board. I had asked the woman in charge if one side was better than the other. She reassured me firmly that both sides were just as good. I found a spot near the front, on the right side. I should have paid attention to the fact that most people were jostling for a seat on the left.

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A brochure about where we are going. It reads “Ballestas Islands … Marine Reserve … Reserve of Life.”

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The inside of the brochure. I didn’t even notice that there is a photo of a Humbolt Penguin …

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Me, in the boat, ready to go…

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Looking from my seat toward the front.

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Pulling away from the town, heading out into the open ocean.

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And looking back to the dock (with zoom) as we say goodbye.

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Some fishing boats anchored a little further out.

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Another, with its huge net stacked up left of that small boat.

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Looking back through the boat’s wake.

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This young girl sat next to me.

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Paracas is situated next to a large peninsula that sticks way out into the ocean. It is also a national reserve. I will go there tomorrow.

For the first part of our journey, we follow along this peninsula.

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Lots of birds over there on the shore (with full zoom).

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Our first stop (out in the water) was to get a beautiful view of this ancient drawing on this sand-covered hill. The huge figure was created here by the Paracas culture.

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A better photo, containing the entire image.

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Zooming out a little further, with part of the shoreline cliffs in the foreground.

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Part of the shoreline near the Paracas image.

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And another photo with very little zoom.

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Birds along the cliffs above.

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Finally, we took off at full speed in this large speed boat. We had a half hour of open water in front of us.

During the long bumpy journey, with strong winds, one of the tour guides brings people up to the front of the boat to take their photos (with their cameras). I opted out of this one.

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… and instead took my own photo. I am squinting because the wind is strong and the sun is bright.

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The first Ballestas Island in the left center.

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Getting closer. There are lots of arches in the rocks along this shoreline.

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Driving by one of the arches. (We did not go through it.)

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It seems that every inch of this island is covered by birds and bird guano. Collecting the bird guano and selling it as fertilizer used to be a large industry here … and a major Peruvian export.

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More birds.

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I was quite surprised to see these penguins. This photo was taken with a strong zoom.

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More penguins.

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And some more.

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I soon began to notice that the captain was driving around the island in a counter-clockwise motion, giving the left side of the boat the best camera opportunities. But I still managed to get some fun photos.

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There are also hundreds (if not thousands) of sea lions and seals out here.

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Another one of me …

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More of the shoreline on the other side.

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Lots and lots of pelicans.

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… and a variety of all kinds of birds.

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Another penguin, bending down to his lower left side … with another one in the bottom center of the photo.

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Remains of the old “guano collection” operations. Now, it appears that these structures are just used by the birds.

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Looking across at the second island, where there are remains of the old mining operation here.

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Going through a small channel where I got a few nice views on the right side of the boat.

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The rock formations here were gorgeous … but very dry and monochrome in color. There is literally no plant life growing here (or so it appears to my eyes).

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More of the countless sea lions.

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These sea lions seemed to be intentionally posing for the tourists.

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Soon, we cross to pass near the other island. Again, we cruise counter clockwise…

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Thousands and thousands of birds.

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And a beach filled to overflowing with sea lions.

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Leaving the second island in the background.

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… and heading back toward Paracas, again following the shores of that huge peninsula.

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A flock of birds out in the open water.

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You can barely see that Paracas figure on the mountain as we again pass by, this time from a considerable distance.

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Me, again squinting in the sun, having a good time.

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A look at a map that I found. The town of Paracas is near the bottom of that vertical shoreline, just above the neck of land that leads out into the peninsula. I will be visiting the National Reserve on that peninsula tomorrow. The Paracas candelabra figure is somewhere along the shoreline of that peninsula.

The Ballestas Islands are those two lighter blobs out in the upper left quadrant of this photo.

(Click to enlarge if you want to see more detail.)

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That is my hostel, just right of the palm tree. I am in a room at the back, on the first floor.

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Later that evening, I ate dinner at a small restaurant along the shoreline. This is the view from my table, with all the fishing boats out there, and the peninsula in the background.

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The front side of my restaurant. I loved the “Lomo Saltado” … pieces of beef sauteed with onions, peppers, and some type of teriyaki sauce.

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Enjoying the sunset on the beach before returning to my hostel.

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And also enjoying sticking my feet into the ocean water for the first time in a year and a half.

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… the last photo before retiring to my room. I have a busy day tomorrow.

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On the morning of April 26, 2015, in the tour minivan, heading out to the National Reserve on the peninsula. I have no idea what to expect.

It turns out that it is more dry, sandy area, with lots of gorgeous waterfront.

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Our first stop is the visitor’s center. I am not at all impressed with our tour guide. He does not speak English, but pretends that he does. He first speaks to the half of our tour that speaks Spanish, and does so with slurred and very rapid speech. I understand very little.

Then, I can only giggle when he dismisses the Spanish speakers and begins speaking to the English speakers. Rather than speaking English, however, he proceeds to speak Spanish, but doing so very slowly, very loudly, using a simpler vocabulary.

I can only giggle, because this is what many westerners do when speaking to those who only speak Spanish … speaking English very slowly and more loudly … as if that will help.

I ended up having to translate for a few people, and was not excited to have that task.

For the rest of the tour, I mostly just avoided the tour guide and did my own thing.

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Another map of the peninsula. We will be visiting that circular loop of dotted lines in the bottom half of the photo.

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Our minivan, and a few of my group.

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We are hiking up to the view area of “The Cathedral”.

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But first, I take a few random photos. This is a small island out in the distance.

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And a sign along the shore.

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Looking down the cliffs at the rugged shoreline below.

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This formation below is “The Cathedral”. It used to be a full arch from that little island on the right, going over to the shoreline. An earthquake caused the arch to collapse.

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Looking straight down at the water below.

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Another look at “The Cathedral”. If you click to enlarge, you can see a unique row of birds on the very top of the part to the right, lining the entire ridge.

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From a nearby view area, looking up a different part of the shoreline.

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The first view area, where I took the photos of “The Cathedral”.

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A photo of how “The Cathedral” used to look before the earthquake destroyed the arch.

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A sign marking the area.

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And another one, indicating where we are going.

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After a twenty or thirty minute drive across the peninsula, we end up at “Red Beach” … or “Playa Roja”.

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The sign for “Playa Roja”.

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The surf is strong here.

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As usual, I ditched the tour guide and went for a solo walk.

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The cliff here is quite unstable. There were warning signs to stay about 20 feet away from the shore. I didn’t see them and was closer. The cliffs are undercut by the waves, and often collapse into the surf below. The “red sand” on the beach comes from the red rocks all over this shoreline.

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Standing close to the edge, looking to the left.

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A piece of the cliff, starting to fall into the eroding, crashing surf….

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I walked over to an area where I could get down onto the beach itself.

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Looking back at the overhanging cliffs.

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A photo of the red sand.

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Holding a little of the sand in my fingers.

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Next, we drive another twenty minutes and end up at this little beach resort. I did not know the agenda of the tour before hand … I am surprised when our guide tells us we will be here for like an hour and twenty minutes … and we can eat lunch here if we want …. I didn’t want to spend my time out here in a restaurant, so I went exploring.

This is the beach area. That building in the background (upper left) is the restaurant where they wanted us to spend our money.

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I hiked up on a nearby hill. It was extremely windy on top. I found a little rock wall that blocked the wind, and I sat down behind the wall to meditate with the gorgeous view.

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Looking back toward “Playa Roja” (Red Beach) … using my zoom.

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Looking down toward the beach here, and the restaurant area beyond the beach.

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Walking along the top of this nearby hill.

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Looking down at the shore below the hill.

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Looking back at the restaurants and boats in the distance.

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Another glance in the direction of “Playa Roja”

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Distant cliffs.

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Me … in my meditation spot.

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I had to secure that chin strap very tightly. It was very windy here.

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A beautiful bird soaring in the updraft to my left.

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The little wall that gave me wind shelter while I meditated.

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Churning waters below.

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It was beautiful here … in a desert, sandy setting.

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Eventually I wandered back to the beach. I didn’t want to fall asleep and miss my ride.

Some of my group are out there enjoying the sun.

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I noticed some nearby rocks where the birds seemed to segregate themselves. This rock was covered by these birds that almost look like penguins.

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And this rock was covered in pelicans.

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It seems I am manifesting lots of flat tires on my journey. When it was time to leave, our minivan had a full-on flat at the left rear.

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A crew of local man came to help change it.

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Back on the road again … a sign marking the “Reserva National de Paracas” … or National Reserve of Paracas.

This ends my photos in Paracas. Later that afternoon, I enjoyed another beach-side meal and sunset in the sand.

A Visit To Lima

Early the next morning I took a bus destined for Lima. I really didn’t want to spend more time in Lima … but I had errands to run there. It seems that my passport visa pages were all full … and I had no room for more stamps at border crossings. I would not be able to travel very far without first going to the embassy to have more pages added.

So I timed my arrival with an all day Monday bus ride, a Tuesday morning appointment at the embassy, and an extra free day on Wednesday just in case…

As it turns out, I was able to drop my passport off at the embassy on Tuesday morning, and then pick it up later that afternoon. I had a comedy filled  experience with the security people (local Peruvians) during both visits. They would not allow cell phones or any electronic devices, or any bags more than six-inches square … blah blah blah … I ended up having to hide my possessions several times, praying they would still be there when I went back to retrieve them. All was well.

These next photos are from my extra day in Lima, Wednesday, April 29, 2015.

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The woman at my hostel suggested that I visit all of the churches in the historic area. I decided to do just that.

This is taken inside one of the churches … the one that was nearest to my bus stop. I got creative and courageous this morning, and easily located the same “Metropolitano” bus that took me from the Miraflores area to the historic downtown area. It is kind of like a subway, but on wheels.

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Inside the church.

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… still in the same church.

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… and another.

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Soon, I walked by the national palace (also on the Plaza de Armas) and took a few photos of the guards doing their high-stepping march. I included a variety of such photos in a blog documenting my first visit to Lima, back in December, 2013.

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The national palace with the guards high-stepping in front.

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Me, in front of the bars that guard the palace (background).

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Looking back at the cathedral (right side).

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Another nearby church. There are seven such churches on the tourist map. I went to five of them today. The other two are ones that I visited on my first trip to Lima.

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This is the Basilica of Santa Cruz.

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Inside the Basilica of Santa Cruz.

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As I walked from church to church, I was only five or six blocks away from the Plaza de Armas, but there was one area that looked really “questionable” as far as my safety. I did a little processing-with-a-smile here regarding my being robbed during my first visit … but my heart kept telling me I was fine here, so I continued.

These old buildings here were quite run down, and covered in graffiti.

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The church in this more “sketchy” neighborhood.

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And I take note that the traffic coming across that distant bridge is coming from an area where the police told me in 2013 to not go any further.

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Some of the graffiti in the area.

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The whole street here was lined by little religious shops selling candles and other worship items.

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Another church in this graffiti-filled area.

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And a tall building literally covered in graffiti (click to enlarge).

Even though I felt “OK” the entire time I was walking through here, I was much more peaceful when I got a few blocks closer to the Plaza de Armas.

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Sign for the “Lord of the Miracles” church.

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Inside that church.

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… and the exterior of another church.

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Soon, I was in front of the Lima Cathedral on the main Plaza de Armas, and realized that I never visited the inside when I was in Lima the first time.

I soon purchase a ticket that gives admission to the cathedral, and to a nearby archbishop’s residence/mansion/museum.

This is inside the cathedral.

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A photo of my brochure, also talking about how this is now a Museum of Religious Art.

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Another photo of my brochure. (I took it so I could later read the words in the photo).

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… also inside the cathedral.

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There is beautiful artwork inside the cathedral.

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… and more.

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It is fascinating in here.

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Another inside the cathedral.

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With full zoom, taking a look at a stained glass window high up near the ceiling.

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Near the front of the cathedral.

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I found a little staircase leading down under the front part, and found a little cemetery under here.

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And a glass case filled with human skulls.

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The staircase leading down there.

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Then, I walked up some stairs and found this large room.

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Looking back up the stairs as I return to the bottom.

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Some huge books in the music room.

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My hand, just to show the size perspective. I think the sign says that these books contain old musical scores used by the church.

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I don’t fully understand the sign … but it talks about “Chorale Books”.

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A large pipe organ up on one side of the cathedral.

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Back outside, in the Plaza de Armas.

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Getting my ticket ready to enter the “Palacio Arzobispal de Lima” – or Archbishop’s Palace of Lima.

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The front of the Archbishop’s palace, right next to the cathedral.

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Inside part of the Archbishop’s palace.

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A beautiful ceiling in the palace.

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The staircase leading upstairs. This looks familiar. Perhaps I did visit this part back in December 2013.

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Part of my brochure that talks about the Archbishop’s Palace.

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More of the inside…

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Part of the elaborate residence. I felt slightly bored in here, so I rushed through. My heart was guiding me to get back outside and go elsewhere.

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Soon, I was again walking around the Plaza de Armas.

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And back down a nearby pedestrian street.

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I was shocked when I earlier saw this old building. It is hard to see, and you would never know it from the outside, but inside this old building is a modern grocery store (Plaza Vea), and a modern department store (Oechsles).

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I cannot remember why, but this blind beggar really caught my attention with his energy. I believe he was singing. This time, I felt guided to leave a small amount in his cup.

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Finally, I returned to the stop of “The Metropolitano” bus … one that would take me right back to Miraflores for the grand total of $1.00 US.

I retired early that night, tired from all of the walking. Tomorrow morning I will have to be up quite early to catch my next bus … a “Cruz Del Sur” bus, with a destination of Trujillo … half way up the northern coast of Peru.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

Photos – A Visit To Nazca, Day 2 – April 2015

May 14th, 2015

On Friday, April 24, 2015, I spent my second day in the Nazca area. I took two separate tours that day, using a local tour company that gave me more possible options of ways to play.

The first tour was a driving tour to the north, visiting several “miradores” (view areas) … and a museum. The second tour (afternoon) was a dune buggy tour, visiting another aqueduct, a beautiful ancient archeological site of the ancient Nazca people, and then playing on the dunes, including sand boarding.

This post is the second of two that document the Nazca visit. Included are 174 photos documenting my journey there, and my second day of exploration. Like I always do, I include detailed story narratives.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

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The first stop on our morning tour was this little hill. Just by looking at these paths, one can easily see how the lines were made. They simply moved the darker rocks off to the sides, leaving these much whiter sandy areas exposed.

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This is an original line that leads away from the parking area.

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A few more of the lines as seen from the top of this small hill.

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More lines as seen from this hill top.

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Zooming in on these small geometric trapezoids.

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In this photo you can see how straight these lines are, and how the continue off into the far distance.

That is the highway running sideways through the middle of the photo. When they built the first road here, they were not even aware that these lines were here.

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Me, standing on the hill with the lines in the background. Click on the image to enlarge if you want to actually see me.

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Another of me with some of the lines on the desert floor in the background.

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This is the sign on the road, marking the view area where I was at in the previous photos.

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Next, we visited this tower – the same one that we saw from the plane yesterday, and on that relief map at the planetarium last night.

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The steps were very narrow and steep.

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Looking down the inside of the tower.

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Looking out at the “hands” formation as seen from the tower. You might take note that one of the hands only has four fingers.

An interesting fact is that Maria Reiche, the German woman who studied the lines for most of her life, only had four fingers on one of her hands.

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A view of the entire hands drawing, as seen from above. Click to enlarge for more details.

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Looking at “the tree” lines on the other side of the tower. From this perspective, the tree is upside down, with the roots in the upper left quadrant of the photo and the branches spread throughout the lower half of the photo.

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Same view, but with a little zoom, showing a few closer details.

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You can see that there are a few Nazca Lines drawings over there on the other side of the road (up and right of the outhouse) … but I cannot tell what they are from this angle.

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Another photo of the tree, with even more zoom.

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Looking down the steps while standing on the top of this very tall platform.

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The tour guide took a few photos for me. This one is me with “the hand” drawing down there behind me.

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And one with part of “the tree” visible behind me.

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This one is looking up the road toward that small hill just before the horizon on the right. That is the first view area we visited this morning.

Again, the tour guide says that when they first built this highway, they did not even know that the lines were here.

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A plane flying overhead, reminding me of my own flight over the lines, just yesterday morning.

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Soon, we are back in the minivan, driving to our next destination.

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It is the “Maria Reiche Museum”. This museum surrounds the actual tiny home where this German woman lived for much of her life, while studying the lines.

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This sign marks the doorway of the little one room, adobe hut where Maria Reiche lived, out here in the hot, dry, desert.

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Looking through the doorway into the room. Most things in here are her actual possessions. Those things hanging on the rope in the background look like some of her drawings as she meticulously mapped out the lines, trying to figure out what they were for.

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Another part of her room.

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More of her drawings, hanging on the wall.

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And another one behind this glass.

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This is Maria Reiche’s actual Volkswagen bus … one of the vehicles that she used to drive around in the desert.

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Our tour guide, standing in front of Maria’s little house.

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A large tangle of the measuring tape that she used as she measured and mapped out the lines.

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More of her drawings and photos.

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A photo of Maria out on the desert, with a little Volkswagen beetle.

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Another photo of Maria Reiche. She devoted most of her adult life to studying these lines.

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Some of the original Nazca pottery on display at this museum.

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And another eerie display of bones, a mummified skull, and pottery.

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This is a photo of the ruins I will visit this afternoon (on the dune buggy tour) as seen from above, before the excavations were begun.

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Click to enlarge if you want to read a few facts about Maria Reiche’s life (in Spanish).  She was born in 1903 and first came to Peru in 1932 to work as a teacher. Two years later she got a job in Peru as a professor. She began to work in the National Museum in 1938 where she was an assistant and translator. In 1941 she traveled to Nazca, and began to investigate the lines. In 1951, she gave her first formal presentation about the lines to the “Congress of the Republic”.

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A photo of details about the next part of her life. In 1966, she assumed the responsibility for preservation of the “lines and figures” of the Nazca area. Subsequently she published several books. She received many awards after that, including “honorary doctorate” from one university. In 1992 she became a Peruvian citizen, as she continued to publish her research. In 1996 and 1997, she received two more honorary doctorate degrees. In 1998, UNESCO decorated her with the “Medal of Machu Picchu”. She died in June of 1998, after which she was posthumously given several other prestigious awards.

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More ancient pottery on display in the museum. This is perhaps 2000 years old, and is just sitting here for anyone to touch (which I took the opportunity to do).

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An old Nazca mummy.

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Maria Reiche’s tombstone … she is buried right here on the property where she spent most of her life.

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Looking back toward her house from the area where the grave is located.

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A plaque on the exterior wall of Maria Reiche’s house. It contains a quote of her’s, in Spanish. You can click to enlarge and read it. It is her words expressing her beliefs about the importance of these Nazca lines and the people who made them .

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Just an interesting photo as we drive northward toward our next destination — more lines, but these are lines drawn by the Paracas culture.

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These Paracas lines are drawn on the side of hills, using much the same techniques as those used by the Nazca people. Click to enlarge for more detail.

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You can see this one fairly clearly in the thumbnail image.

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The second lookout tower of the day.

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Looking at the drawings and figures as seen from higher up in the tower. Click to enlarge for more detail.

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Another of the figures off to the side (click to enlarge).

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Me, with some of the figures off to my side.

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… and another, with a drawing off to my other side.

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… and another, with less zoom.

Soon, the tour ended as as spent our final hour driving back to the town of Nazca.

After a quick lunch, I met up with my afternoon tour … an archeological and adventure tour, via dune buggy.

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They gave us special wraparound sunglasses. I really needed them with all the blowing sand. And I had to keep the chin strap of my hat quite tight to keep it from blowing off.

Our driver was very talented at making me feel safe as he zoomed through the desert at three times the speed I would have driven.

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But first, we had to leave Nazca. I was sitting directly behind the driver, on the left side. I believe there were seven of us on this tour.

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Still our our way out of town. That white mountain in the background is the huge sand-dune mountain that I referred to yesterday. At this point I am wondering if that is our destination. I later learn that it is not …

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Still making our way out of town.

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A fun photo of me in the rear view mirror.

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… and this one including the camera.

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Finally we are zooming out on dirt roads, headed toward our first destination.

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The road is quite rough, but the fat tires and good suspension of the dune buggy makes it a mostly-smooth ride.

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Our first stop is the archeological site of Ocongalla, where we see another beautiful aqueduct.

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Looking down into the aqueduct from above.

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… and with a little less zoom.

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Looking at just one corner of the scene below.

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Looking at a channel of water that leaves the area.

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Another view in the main area … a large tree trunk lies across the water.

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Our tour guide stands on that tree trunk to talk to us about this site.

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Looking down at the water from a different angle.

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Just down from the main spring area are these terraces on both sides of the open-air aqueduct.

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This is our dune buggy.

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And soon, we are leaving the aqueduct, with about thirty minutes of crazy driving ahead of us.

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… racing and winding back and forth over hills, sand, and desert.

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I saw this cemetery on the left and managed to get a photo as we zoomed by without stopping.

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My constant view out the open-air front. I am very grateful for my wraparound sunglasses.

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Soon, we approach the massive archeological site of Cahuachi.

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I am profoundly impressed by my first glimpses.

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Prior to restoration, these were just rocky hills with a few old adobe walls sticking out. They have done a fabulous job of uncovering and restoring the finish on the old walls.

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More of the ruins.

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At this point, we are still in the parking lot. This is a view off to the left, looking at more of the ruins that have NOT yet been restored. You can see the un-restored walls in front. That entire hill is more of these ruins.

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Soon, we began exploring on our own … with a time limit of when to return to the dune buggy. This is a sign at my first stop.

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Part of the “Escalonado Temple”

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More of the ruins near that sign.

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These walls are all restored by smoothing over the old walls with fresh mud and protective mixtures that withstand the elements. Remember, this area only gets about seven hours of rain per year, so rain is not one of the erosive elements here.

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More of the ruins.

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Now, we are in the area of the “Orange Pyramid” … I am not sure which structure is which, because the signs are placed in general areas, and there are structures all over the place.

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… part of the “Orange Pyramid” area.

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I love this photo.

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Now headed to the “North Plaza”.

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I’m guessing that the plaza is the open area in front of that background structure. Our walking area is clearly marked, and the area in front is roped off…

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… and now on to the East Plaza.

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… which I am guessing would be this area.

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A closeup view of some of the restored walls.

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And then turning around to look at a hillside of un-restored walls.

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More areas that have not yet been restored.

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One area had several round holes in the ground, indicating that there are underground buildings here …

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Looking from the same area, up at the edge of the restored structures.

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In the area of the “South Temple”.

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Looking out across the desert. Much of this is also old ruins, covered in sand.

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I followed one trail to the upper corner of the restored section.

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Looking at one of the holes in the ground.

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Down into another hole.

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Two of the holes in this little area. I am curious what might be below me.

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Taken from the same place, looking back toward the parking lot where our dune buggy sits waiting.

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More un-restored area as I walk back to the parking lot.

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A unique piece of traditional art on the side of this building by the entrance. Our tour guide talked about its significance, but I do not remember his words. The writing above the art reads: “Ceremonial Center of Cahuachi”

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Soon, we are zooming across the open desert, once again.

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The road has many possibilities, and our driver zig zags all over the place to make those “possibilities” more interesting.

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Looking at some of those evolving possibilities in the distance.

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It is very hot and dry here.

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Still racing through the desert. I am so grateful for the cool breeze (or should I say hurricane wind) on my face.

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Coming into a small valley area that has water and farms.

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The road is a little narrower here, and our driver slows down because of the hills.

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Looking down at the farm below. I think the driver told us that these are onions.

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Very soon, we stop for a brief visit at an old burial ground. This is part of an old mummy just sitting out in the desert. There is no security here … anyone can come and go, and likely many take what they want.

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A fragment of very old pottery …

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A pile of human bones just above the road.

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More of the bones.

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Looking up the hillside … there appear to be bones everywhere.

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Some of my group gathered around the bones … I apologize if these photos are too explicit for some.

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Looking up the road.

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Holding another piece of very old pottery.

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Soon, we are back on the road again, finally embarking on the dune-adventure part of the tour.

First, we pass through a tiny pueblo. A woman steps out of a building, and our driver tells us we can stop to buy water from her if anyone needs some. No one responds, so we just keep going.

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Part of this tiny town.

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Continuing forward, passing through a small valley with green trees growing. There must be groundwater here.

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… it is a beautiful little valley.

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… continuing on for a while.

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Finally, it appears that we are approaching our sand dune destination.

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… but first, a gorgeous old tree.

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… and even more driving.

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We are headed up to the area in the distance where you can barely see that power line tower in the left center.

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Closer and closer.

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Coming up to the raw, open sand.

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We soon pause to adjust the air pressure in the tires.

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Looking around while we are stopped.

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Looking down below me as the driver releases air from the left front tire. I remember doing this with my jeep when driving around the trails in Moab Utah … the lower air pressure gives the tires more traction when off roading.

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And now, we are off to the races in this very soft sand. Right here it is quite steep. You cannot tell that from the camera’s perspective.

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Continuing to climb. We kept going up and up for about ten minutes.

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The driver gave us several rushes of adrenaline as he crested very steep hilltops and then raced blindly down the other steep side.

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We stop briefly atop this rocky area before beginning our adrenaline adventures.

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Zooming around in the afternoon sun.

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It was hard to focus as we zoomed down steep hillsides. Right here, we are cresting a hill top and diving over the other side.

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It feels as if we are going straight down as I snap this photo while clinging to the roll bar with my left hand. We were also very securely strapped in with shoulder straps and seat belts.

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More of the massive dune.

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Eventually, we stop, get out, and retrieve the sand boards from the back of the dune buggy.

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It is gorgeous here, with the sun less than a couple of hours from setting.

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Some of the untouched scenery.

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Me, with the dune buggy.

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… and then, the driver told me to climb inside.

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… having a very fun time (me with my arms in the air, behind the wheel).

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Looking down the hill where we go sand boarding. It is actually quite steep here. The photo simply cannot capture the perspective of height and slope relative to the surrounding area.

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First, we all took a turn at going down on our bellies, head first. Then, after hiking back up, we went down while sitting down, feet first.

Finally, the tour guide showed us how to do it standing up. Here, he coaches the first young woman as she prepares to go for it.

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I asked someone to hold my camera and get a few photos of me doing the same. This is the first photo that my friend took.

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And the second one, with me already part of the way down the hill.

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And another, a few seconds later. The sand was dragging and I was not sliding very fast. It was difficult to maintain my balance, but I did it. This is my first time ever as a sand boarder. I have used a water board behind a ski boat — but was never very good at it.

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Finally, my board stops moving, and I begin to lose balance. My photographer friend did a good job using the zoom to capture my adventure.

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And then, I had to hike back up. After this “standing up” run, I made several more runs down the hill on my belly, face first. I held the record for distance, continually beating the others’ records.

It was a lot of fun, and I would have done it again and again were it not for the fact that I had to climb back up the hill on foot, trudging through loose sand, after every time that I went to the bottom.

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We went off the top of that hill (upper right) when doing it on our belly and when sitting down. We started on a more gentle slope for the standing up version.

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Another view looking down.

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As the sun began to set, we all climbed back into the dune buggy. Our driver soon took off to the races again, and then climbed up to the top of a nearby hill where we could watch the sunset yet again.

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Beginning that final run.

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… and climbing up the hill to watch the sunset.

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… and a gorgeous sunset it was.

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With less zoom … a magical skyline.

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Looking east … still plenty of light.

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Good night beautiful sun.

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It was a magical vista.

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Constantly shifting and changing, as sunsets seem to do.

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Our dune buggy in the last light of the day. You can see how white the tracks are behind it. This is literally the same principle used to create the Nazca lines. The jeep tires moved the black rocks, leaving the white sand exposed. (This was a rocky area where we watched the sunset.)

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Another view of the “Jeep Lines” … perhaps one day, a thousand years from now, archeologists will be studying these lines, wondering who made them, and why …

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Final glimpses of the darkening sky.

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I love the clouds and lighting effects.

A few minutes later, we all climbed back into the dune buggy and began our hour-long journey back to Nazca, racing and swerving down a narrow dirt road back toward the highway, all in the darkness of night.

After gobbling down dinner, and enjoying a good night of sleep, I will board another bus in the morning … heading off toward the town of Paracas, a beach town near some natural preserves.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

Photos – A Visit To Nazca, Day 1 – April 2015

May 14th, 2015

On Wednesday morning, April 22, 2015, I boarded a luxury bus at the Arequipa “terrapuerto” bus station, with destination Nazca. Most of the buses I found were night buses, so I was excited to find out that Oltursa had a morning bus. I was eager to see the countryside in the daylight – something I did not get to do when traveling from Cusco to Arequipa.

This post is the first of two that will document the Nazca visit. Included are 112 photos documenting my journey there, and my first day of exploration. As usual, all photos include detailed story narratives.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

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I bought my tickets two days in advance, so I was able to choose my favorite seat. I was on the second floor in the very front of the bus. Yes, those are my socks on the dashboard in front of me.

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The terrain in this part of the world is very different than I expected. In fact, most all of the Pacific coast side of Peru, from the lower Andes mountains all the way to the ocean, is very dry with almost no rain.

On one of my tours in Nazca, someone told me that the area gets a grand total of about 7 hours or rain per year … yes, I said hours.

In many places, the landscapes around the road reminded me of how it might look on mars or perhaps on the moon.

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Following some farm equipment.

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Looking back toward the volcanoes,Chachani and Misti, as we leave the Arequipa area.

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There is also a lot of sand in this part of the world.

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Just dry, hot territory.

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Here and there are a few farmed areas where they have access to rivers or ground water. you can see a few patches of green down there on the left.

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Arequipa is a very high-altitude desert, situated at around 7,600 feet above sea level. For the first part of the 10 hour drive, we are gradually descending toward the ocean.

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Finally, at around four or five hours into the journey, the Pacific Ocean comes into view. When we get to the intersection ahead, we will turn right, to the north.

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The terrain by the ocean is quite similar – dry, and very sandy in places.

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And there is lots of wind here today, blowing sand here across the road.

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I giggled as we drove through one small town. A HUGE piece of construction equipment was blocking the road ahead. Traffic on both sides was at a standstill for nearly a half hour because no one could figure out how to proceed. The people on the ground were trying to get all of us to pull off the road so the equipment could pass through the narrow streets of the town.

Finally, someone thought of the smart thing to do … they had the wide load pull off and let the long line of cars go by. I can only assume that after that there was plenty of room for the equipment to pass.

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A photo of the huge equipment that was blocking the road in a standoff with oncoming traffic.

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And another view. He had room here, but just ahead, the road was narrower, and he could not pass.

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I have no idea what this actually is.

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And there was another something huge behind it.

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Finally moving again, with a glance at the ocean in the distance.

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This was my first day seeing the ocean in almost a year and a half.

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Huge rocky hills, covered in sand …

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… and huge dunes on the right side of the road.

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I love the ocean … but the photos are not that clear because of the blowing sand in the air, and the dirty windows on the bus.

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The roads are winding and narrow, almost all one lane in each direction … we did a lot of passing.

Finally, at around 5:30 p.m., the bus dropped me off at a tiny bus station in Nazca … and minutes later, someone from the hotel picked me up. I had called the night before to make a reservation.

C1 - Apr 23, 2015 - Around Nazca (02)

The next morning, before my flight over the Nazca lines, I did a little exploring.

This is the exterior of my hotel (in the middle, yellowish color). I was on the middle level, with a window to the front.

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Inside my room. The window faced to the west, and the room got very hot in the afternoon.

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Looking from my balcony down at the street below. The main “Plaza de Armas” is a couple of blocks away, down this street.

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My tour guide told me that the white mountain in the background is a sand dune – approximately 6000 feet tall – and that it is the tallest sand dune in the world. I’m not sure about the facts, but it is huge for sure.

C2 - Apr 23, 2015 - Nazca Lines Flight (01)

At around 10:00 a.m. I was in the small local airport, waiting for my little Cessna to take me over the Nazca Lines. A thirty minute flight costs about $80 US.

C2 - Apr 23, 2015 - Nazca Lines Flight (02)

We were nearly an hour late in leaving. Finally, we were guided to the security station where we had to go through X-Ray machines and searches just like at any airport.

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My plane is the second one down there.

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A couple of co-passengers on my plane.

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… eager to board.

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Taking photos before liftoff. I opted to avoid the beginning photos because I wanted to be in line to get a good seat (five passenger seats). As it turns out, they seated us by weight so that they could balance the plane. I was on the right side on the second row.

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Me, inside the plane.

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Looking out just before we begin to taxi out to the runway.

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Looking forward from my seat … the pilot and co-pilot in front, two people behind them, and then me, on the right. The co-pilot had a microphone, and we all had headphones to listen to his guiding. He spoke English, but I had a hard time understanding him with all the plane’s noise.

C2 - Apr 23, 2015 - Nazca Lines Flight (10)

Looking at a rudimentary (not to scale) map of our general route for the 20 minutes above the Nazca lines.

If you click to enlarge the photo, you can read a little of the detail. The map contains pictures of the lines that we will see, with arrows pointing at the general order in which we will fly to see them. Both sides of the plane were just as good, because we flew over every formation twice, once banking to the right, and once banking to the left.

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Preparing to take off.

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Flying over the town of Nazca as we head toward the lines.

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Looking back toward Nazca (town).

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The first things we saw were many of the geometrical designs etched into the desert floor.

I had a really hard time at first, and could not find the whale formation when we flew over it. The lines are not really easy to see with a quick glance, and the contrast of lighting was not that clear … plus I was trying to handle my camera. Finally, I gave up on the camera. It seemed impossible to focus and aim correctly when all the turbulence and very short time spans to see.

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A trapezoid shape below, upper middle, wider on the left end.

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Another view of the trapezoid.

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And another … shapes like this are all over the place.

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… and another one, this one with several lines coming out of the lower tip.

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A picture of the “astronaut man” from my map. It is about 100 feet tall.

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The astronaut man on the hillside below. Look on the left front face of this darker mountain. If you click to enlarge, the image will be obvious.

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Another image of the same … this one is a little clearer in this thumbnail image, but you can click to enlarge and see it much better.

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More geometric shapes below, with lots of crisscrossing lines.

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The vast majority of the lines are shapes like these.

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Not a very good image (as are most of these) … but in this one, you can barely see pieces of a tree image (lower part of photo), and two hands from another image at the top.

This was all I could get with the camera from the plane. I have better photos of these two images from when I visit a lookout tower tomorrow.

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As our planed banked for a return flight over the tree and hands, we saw this spiral that is not on our generalized map.

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The hummingbird was one of the easier ones to catch on camera … but it is still not a good image. Click to enlarge if you want to see it in the upper right quadrant.

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Another of the hummingbird, now in the upper left quadrant. we went over these very quickly and had little time to focus after finding them in the light contrast.

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Yet another of the hummingbird … in the upper half of the photo, with its bill pointing to the left.

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In the top right quadrant (click to enlarge) is the spider formation.

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Lots of lines below, but they are difficult to distinguish.

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I believe this is the parrot formation, but I cannot make it out enough to tell.

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We flew again over the tree and the hands formation. There is a tower down there by the road, right next to these formations. I go there tomorrow to get better photos.

Look right and down from the tower to see the hand formation … and left and down to see the tree. The roots of the tree are away from the tower (very difficult to see).

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This one is much easier to see. If you click to enlarge, you can easily see the tree, with roots at the bottom of the photo.

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I gave up on trying to get more photos from the plane. This is a photo of the plane itself … a Cessna C 207 for 5 passengers (the one in the middle).

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Landing at the airport.

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Almost on the runway.

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And me, back on solid ground, giggling inside … I did it.

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My official flight certificate.

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Another look back at the plane as I return to the airport lobby to find my ride back to town.

C3 - Apr 23, 2015 - Antonini Museum (1)

That afternoon, after a yummy lunch, I visited a nearby museum.

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This is my ticket for the Archeological Museum Antonini.

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The museum contains many artifacts from the area … many of which are as much as 2000 years old.

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A fragmented piece of ancient pottery, with many of the pieces glued back together.

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More ancient pottery from the Nazca culture (or perhaps from the Paracas culture … I didn’t pay real close attention).

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And another interesting one.

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These items are very old … and original.

C4 - Apr 23, 2015 - Afternoon Tours  (01)

At around 4:00 p.m., the hotel’s tour-guide employee picked me up for a private tour. I was his only customer, and he took me in his old private car. I felt a little weird going by myself, but after checking in with my heart, I knew all was well and safe…

Our first stop was the Aqueducts of Cantalloc.

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These are fascinating, built about 2000 years ago by the Nazca people. At this site there are more than twenty of these spirals dug deep into the ground, anywhere from 15 to 30 feet deep. Each ends at the bottom with access to an open aqueduct still flowing water as it did in ancient times. These are original, with most still functioning as they did when the Nazca people built them.

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Looking down into one of the spirals.

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And a closer look. That is cool, fresh, drinkable spring water flowing down an underground canal in the bottom. The canal is lined with rocks, covered with the wood from a very special hardwood tree (the guide showed me one of the trees and told me its name but I cannot remember. Then the hardwood (which apparently does not rot, but is instead almost petrified) is covered with rock and earth.

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Me, right down at the bottom, preparing to touch the water. The guide told me that they built many of these so that more people would have access to the water, and that they were covered like this to keep the water from all evaporating … but you know how I feel about tour guides LOL … perhaps what he tells me is true, but I’m not sure how he knows that.

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Me, touching the cool water.

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My tour guide.

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Looking down into another of the aqueducts.

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This is the special tree – the hardwood used to cover the water down above the water channel.

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A cut trunk on this tree.

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And another of the aqueducts. This one is one of the deepest ones.

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Getting closer.

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Looking down to the bottom of this one.

You can see the rock steps protruding from the lower wall, allowing someone to climb down there.

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I loved this orange and black bird that I was in a nearby cactus field.

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Part of the lower aqueduct area is open to the ground above. My guide says this is an area where they could bathe.

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A different view of the same.

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Walking back to the tour guide’s car as we finish this part of the tour.

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We drive by this huge field of watermelons as we head back to the highway.

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A few minutes later we arrive at “Las Agujas” or “The Needles” – a small view area of a few ordinary lines…

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The sign at the entrance. We will walk up that trail to the top of the small hill.

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This shows how the lines are made. This whole area is made of a lighter colored sand, with darker rocks layered all over it. Many of the rocks (in the more famous Nazca Lines area) are iron-rich, and have rusted, making them a little darker in color.

To make the lines, the ancient people cleared away the rocks to the sides, leaving the whiter sand in the middle. The lines that you can see from above are actually the white sand exposed to view. These lines last forever, because there is so little rain here (7 hours per year) … so there is no erosion … and the rocks do not blow around in the winds.

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Looking at the same spot as the previous photo, but taken from on top of the hill, giving a much better view of this small geometric shape.

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There are more lines over there, but I cannot see them in this photo.

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The final stop in my personal tour was this pottery shop. This woman’s father learned how to make pottery as the ancient Nazca and Paracas cultures did. She is following in her father’s footsteps, recreating many of their styles.

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In the front are some original Nazca pottery chunks. The woman told us that some of them are 2000 years old.

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… and this is an original Nazca pot, with original painting. It is such a privilege to be able to hold it. There is an abundance of such artifacts in this area, and so little protection to keep them all safe …

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Part of a demonstration of how this woman recreates the pottery, showing us how she adds those pointy ears to the pot.

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And another unpainted re-creation.

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An original paintbrush used by the Nazca people to paint their pottery.

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… more of the demonstration (there was another large tour group in the room too).

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This is the homemade kiln in which the pottery is fired. She puts clay sculptures in the bottom, covers them, and then builds the fire with hot coals on top.

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A fun little piece she made, matching the Paracas culture colors and style.

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Some of the crafts that she sells here in her shop.

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I tend to enjoy such things from afar. I have no space to carry any extra baggage with me.

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More “showing us” the things she has made.

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Later that evening, after a quick dinner, I went to an 8:00 p.m. presentation at a small planetarium that does shows about the Nazca Lines. It is located inside the grounds of the “Nazca Lines Hotel” where the German woman who made the Nazca Lines famous lived out her final years. Her name was “Maria Reiche”. My second post will talk more about her.

In the hotel lobby was a large relief map showing the actual layout of the lines, with the locations of all of the drawings that we saw from the plane.

The above photo is one showing the “whale” formation (bottom left) … one of the ones that I could not see from the plane.

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This one shows the lookout tower, and the hands and the tree drawings that I will see more closely tomorrow.

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A birds-eye view of the relief map showing the massive cross-cross nature of these lines. At first glance they seem quite random, but many of them follow themes, such as pointing at places where the solstice occurs, etc…

No one knows (scientifically) for sure why these lines were built. There are many conflicting theories.

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Another piece of the map, showing the spider as a tiny figure in the lower left, just below the middle of that large fat white line.

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… and the monkey … another one I could not find from the plane.

I did not take any photos during the actual planetarium show. I found the presentation to be fascinating, and one of the best synopses of the Nazca Lines that I had heard (or read) anywhere.

After the show, I returned to my room and slept quite well….

This is the end of Part one of my Nazca photos. The second part will follow very soon.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

Photos – Arequipa Wrap-Up – April 2015

May 13th, 2015

Early Thursday morning, April 9, 2015, I arrived in Arequipa after an exhausting all-night bus ride from Cusco. Once I was settled into a small hotel near the center of town, I began to explore. I already posted photos yesterday from my three-day trek to Colca Canyon from the 10th to the 12th of April. In this post I share all of the other photos I took in the area, including another solo journey back down into that majestic Colca Canyon.

This post contains 163 photos from that fun ten-day adventure, including detailed story narratives for each.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

B0 - April 09, 2015 - Arequipa (03)

This is a huge cathedral on the “Plaza de Armas” at the center of Arequipa. It literally consumes the entire block.

This building illustrates why Arequipa is often called the “White City”. Most of the older buildings in town were built with a very distinctive white rock.

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Inside the cathedral. I had to take a tour to get there …

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My ticket … just to remind me where we are when I look at the photos later.

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… more inside.

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… and more. It is gorgeous in here.

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I was surprised when part of the tour actually took us outside and up on top of the cathedral. That tower is one of the bell towers above the cathedral.

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Closer view of the bell tower.

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A couple of the bells. The tour guide wouldn’t let me ring the bells. It would have been so fun. I did touch the ropes, and they are extremely heavy and hard to move.

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Looking down off the roof at one of the streets surrounding the Plaza de Armas below. If you follow this street for a block and a half, you will find my little hotel.

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Looking down off the roof at the center of the Plaza de Armas. This is a beautiful plaza, filled with lovely people and lots of pigeons.

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More bells in another tower on top the cathedral.

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Looking down with a zoom, watching an area where many of the pigeons and children congregate together.

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The main bell … the words at the top read “Catedral de Arequipa” (I cannot read the lower words.)

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Looking up into one of the huge bells.

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Some of the huge timbers and straps supporting the bell above. It looks extremely heavy.

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Down below the cathedral, near one corner, there were some protesters there – protesting against some mining operations in a nearby area. They called for a strike on the day that I had a bus ticket to leave. Luckily, my  bus left anyway …

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I loved watching the children play with the pigeons in the Plaza de Armas.

Many local photographers turned it into a business where they would take photos of people playing with the pigeons, charging a small fee, and then posting the photos on the internet. That man with the tan jacket is one such photographer.

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More children and pigeons.

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My hotel is a half block down this street. The entrance is just a tiny stairway that leads to the second floor, where it then opens up into a beautiful place.

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This is the Chili river, the main river that flows through town.

I took this, and these next photos on my day off between my three-day trek and my solo trek that begins tomorrow.

B2 - Apr 13, 2015 - Santa Catalina Monastery (01)

This is the Santa Catalina Monastery. Parts of it are still used as a monastery today, but most of it has been turned into a huge museum.

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The sign in the lobby.

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More of the sign. It contains details about how the monastery was founded in 1579. You can click on the photo to enlarge it if you want to read more.

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This and many of the following photos are taken inside the monastery. I will comment when there is something unique that I want to say. Otherwise, I may just post photos here without comments.

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This monastery is like a city within a city … filled with plazas and lots of little streets.

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This sign translates to “Earthquake damages”

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This is an outdoor area where people did their laundry.

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I’ve never seen a toilet like this one.

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Return To Colca Canyon

As I shared in my previous post, while in the little village of San Juan de Chuccho on the first night of my three-day trek into Colca Canyon, I felt strong energetic guidance to return to the canyon by myself and to do some ceremonies in that part of the canyon.

I returned to Arequipa on April 12th, spent the 13th resting, doing laundry, touring the monastery, and preparing for my return.

On the morning of April 14th, at around 3:00 a.m., I again left my hotel on the same tourist transportation destined for the canyon. But this time I had purchased a one-way transport only. I would be hiking alone, and following the timing dictated by my own heart. The only time constraint put on me was that my tourist ticket (entrance into the canyon) was only good until April 20th.

B3 - Apr 14-19, 2015 - Solo Colca Trek (01)

I took a photo of the back of my tourist ticket. It has a little map (not to scale) of the trek. If you click to enlarge, you can follow along.

I began the hiking at the “Mirador San Miquel”, on the near side of the river (4000 feet above it), just right of Cabanaconde. On that day, I hiked for two hours and forty minutes, crossing the river at the bottom and then arriving at San Juan de Chuccho before noon.

On this trip, I spent four nights at the Posada Gloria in San Juan de Chuccho. I did ceremonies on my first two days there, and then did a little hiking and exploring on my last two days. On one of those hikes, I went up to Tapay, which doesn’t look very far, but which is quite high up on the side of the canyon wall.

On my fifth day I hiked to Cosñirhua, Malata, and then to Sangalle where I spent the night. On the morning of the sixth day (19th), I began hiking at 4:15 a.m. and was back to the top by 8:00 a.m., ending on the trail that took me right into Cabanaconde.

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Before beginning the solo hiking, however, we passed over that same majestic 16,000 foot mountain pass, had breakfast in Chivay, and went to see the Condors all over again.

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There was lots of snow along the road on this April 14, 2015 morning.

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The sign at the top of the mountain pass.

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I was in the same van that brought me here on the 10th of April, that that is the same Virgin Mary photo dangling from the rear view mirror.

Several vans were pulled over at the top of the pass. We did not stop …

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At the “Cruz del Condor” view area, the condors were not yet flying when we arrived. Several of them were nestled in on the rocks of the cliff.

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A couple more of them on the rocks below the view area.

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One of them was spreading his wings, toying with the idea of taking off into the currents.

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Come on … you can do it :)

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Finally, one of them takes flight. The rest soon follow.

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It is hard to catch them with focus and zoom just right….

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I love this photo.

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And especially love this one.

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When it was time to leave, I found our van driver changing a flat tire, so I took a few photos and then went back to watch the condors a little longer.

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In all of my travels in Latin America, it never ceases to amaze me how “bald” most of the tires are LOL …

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More soaring condors …

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This one is gorgeous.

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… flying so free. I understand that these majestic birds rarely flap their wings. Instead, they ride the currents that rise from below.

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Finally, the flat tire is fixed and we drive to the top of the trail. As the van comes to a complete stop, I am ready to go and just start hiking while the other travelers group up, waiting for their respective tour guides.

I was the only person around for most of my descent down that 4000 foot mountain. One young man passed me as I approached the bottom.

I did not take many photos of this hike, because I took so many on my first adventure here…

In this photo, I managed to capture the trail from Malata to Sangalle (which I will hike on my final day) (taken with strong zoom.) The trail zig zags down that hill on the right, crosses the river, and then ends at that oasis below on the left. You can see several of the swimming pools down there.

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This one, with less zoom, shows the entire trail from Malata (right center) to Sangalle (lower left center).

When I hiked here the first time, I was not familiar with the area. It was fun on this hike to look down below and to know the terrain.

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Finally, I was able to look down (with strong zoom), and see the town of San Juan de Chuccho, where I will sleep tonight (and three additional nights).

I did  not take any more photos on this hike to the bottom. I was proud of myself. I made it to the bridge in just two hours and ten minutes. According to the guard’s log, I was the seventh person to cross the bridge today, and a many of those were actually going the other way. Only one young man passed me on the way down.

After crossing the bridge, it took me another 40 minutes to reach Posada Gloria in San Juan de Chuccho, where I checked into my room, devoured a delicious lunch, and spent most of the day resting and meditating.

 

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On my second day in the canyon, I hiked to a remote spot along the nearby hills, and spent the day in ceremony. This is the view I had while waiting for the morning sun to rise high enough so that it would warm my particular spot.

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… and later, I moved to this little grassy area on the side of the hill. I hung out here all morning, meditating and enjoying the scenery, not returning until lunchtime.

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My scarf and sweatshirt on a rock, marking the spot where I spent a few hours meditating.

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Later, I hiked a little further down a nearby trail, finding this gorgeous grassy area to meditate while feeling the river below.

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I loved the cliff across the canyon too.

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More of my second meditation spot.

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A fun view of the canyon below.

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Looking at the trail on the far side of the canyon, trying to figure out how I got from the top, down to the river.

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On my third day in this part of the canyon, I did another ceremony, this time hiking to a different part of the nearby canyon. I found a large, flat, grassy area with a gorgeous view … and lots of shade.

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… with FULL zoom, a view of the distant river below.

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Another gorgeous view from my second ceremony.

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These cactus fascinate me. If you look closely, you can see that the patterns on the large leaves are not separate leaves, but are just that, magical patterns, put there by mother nature.

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More nearby scenery.

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This part of it on the lower part of the trail across the canyon.

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Late afternoon, looking down at Posada Gloria, as the sun begins to disappear behind the nearby ridge.

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With the sun getting lower, I notice that other parts of the canyon are bright and sunny, so I go for a walk.

This is a better view of the trail across the canyon. I came down a series of switchbacks that hug and go behind that cliff in the upper right. Then I zig-zagged down the rest of that slippery slope to the bridge.

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A view upstream taken from further up this side of the canyon.

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Part of the trail that I was following.

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More cactus with those little chichinillas (little bugs with red dye) on them.

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Another view of the trail across the canyon. I was obsessed with trying to be able to see how I got down.

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Finally, I got far  enough to get a good view of this mountain from top to bottom.

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This man and his son passed by me on their mule.

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Looking below as I hike back toward San Juan de Chuccho.

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On my third full day in San Juan de Chuccho, I decided to begin hiking the canyon slopes above me, heading up toward the village of Tapay, which is considerably higher, way above.

At one point in the trail, I was shocked to find the trail covered by a stream of water and loose, wet gravel. A group of men were working there, shoveling the gravel from side to side.

I literally had to take my shoes off and walk barefoot for several hundred feet, carefully stepping through the poking rocks. One sweet worker took my hand and held it as he helped me through the maze. He told me that they were washing gravel to build a reservoir just below the trail … and that this was their only way of getting the building materials.

When I got further up the trail, looking back down at the workers (this photo), I could clearly see that they were bringing dirty rocks from a nearby hillside, and they had piled the rocks on the trail. Meanwhile, they had diverted an irrigation ditch onto the trail, and were using the running water to wash away the soil.

This photo shows one of the workers with his shovel, right near the area where I had to remove my shoes and walk in that freezing water.

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Beautiful scenery as I climb at least a thousand feet above San Juan de Chuccho.

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Another view of that water-covered trail below. In this photo, you can see their yellow wheelbarrows and a couple of the workers.

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Continuing up the trail. Way up on the hillside in the background, on the left, behind the near hill, is the town of Tapay.

Just a little further up this trail, it joins up with a dirt road. As I stand there to rest, a beat-up minivan drives by. I put out my hands to hitch a ride on this old deteriorating, rattling collective taxi. Ten minutes later (and five soles lighter) I am standing in the gorgeous remote village of Tapay, about half way up this side of the canyon wall.

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The church in Tapay.

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The minivan I was riding in (taken from the same spot, looking back).

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Wow, from Tapay, you can see the entire trail on the other side of the canyon. It is hard to see in this thumbnail, but you can click to enlarge if you want to study it. The trail from Cabanaconde begins in the upper right and follows the upper ridge all the way to the left side of the photo.

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Another view of the Tapay church.

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This is a very old and tiny church, and is very simple on the inside.

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A woman walking through the streets in her traditional clothing. There are no roads in the town itself … all foot paths. The road dead-ends at the edge of town.

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One of those foot paths that connects the town together, looking up at the gorgeous mountains that tower above this remote village.

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Another view looking across the canyon. You can tell from this view that we are quite high up on the opposite side.

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I cannot find any little stores open in town, and there does not seem to be anything to do or see. I am very tired, and soon begin to walk back down the road.

This photo is a view of Tapay as I descend the road. I end up walking all the way to Cosñirhua on this road. These upper towns are connected by this steep, narrow, dirt road.

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With strong zoom, a look down at Cosñirhua in the distance (right center).

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Part of the road as I continue walking.

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In the upper center is the village of Malata, from where the trail begins to descend toward Sangalle.

If you look closely, in the first gray area of the lower left foreground, you can see the switchbacks of the trail I used to climb from San Juan de Chuccho up to the road, where I then took the minivan to Tapay.

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As I neared Cosñirhua, I had a beautiful view of the trail I took just a week earlier when I was here the first time. When climbing from San Juan de Chuccho to Cosñirhua, we had to climb this very steep and slippery trail from the little river below.

Today, I am following the road above, expecting to just easily hike around and above that small river canyon.

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The road passes through some deep cuts as I continue around this little canyon.

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I am nearing the back of this canyon, approaching the place where the road crosses the little river and then returns back to Cosñirhua on the left.

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I giggle when I get close enough to realize that there is no bridge here. I am going to have to wade across this freezing water … going barefoot in rocky water for the second time today.

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I can find no way to go around this obstacle, so i just go right through it. It is not very deep here, but is very cold, and very rocky.

Five minutes later, I am drying my feet, and replacing my shoes and socks.

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Soon, I see a sign for the same little rest area where my tour group had stopped on April 11.

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And I am here … taking a much deserved break.

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While resting, this huge bee-like fly came to play. He would not leave me alone – seeming to be attracted to something about me. First he hung out on my hat.

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Later, as I walked down the steep trail to the little river below, he hung out on the leg of my pants.

That evening, after returning to San Juan de Chuccho, I enjoyed my fourth and final night at Posada Gloria. I knew it was time to move on.

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Early on the 18th of April, I began my hike back to Cosñirhua, then to Malata, and then on toward Sangalle.

In this photo, I am on that final trail, looking back toward Malata and Cosñirhua.

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After about three hours of following the same path that I also hiked on April 11, I arrive at a rock that marks the entrance to my hotel in Sangalle … the Paraiso Palmeras Lodge.

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Another sign for my lodge.

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After checking in and devouring a delicious lunch, I spent the afternoon swimming in the pool and then hanging out by the river.

This is one of the rock towers (karins) that I built while playing.

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And another one.

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I spent a lot of time just meditating by the river, connecting with the large rocks. This one had some type of green mineral in it.

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This huge boulder was like a giant rose quartz – very smoky.

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And this one had huge strips of purple rock. I sat and rested against several of these rocks, focusing on trying to feel their energy.

Early the next morning, at 4:15 a.m. on April 19, I began hiking from Sangalle to Cabanaconde, following the same trail on which I had ridden a mule just a week earlier. To my delight, I made it in only three hours and forty-five minutes …

After arriving in Cabanaconde, I discovered that a local bus was heading to Arequipa at 9:00 a.m., and soon had a bus ticket in hand.

The return journey was very slow, taking nearly six hours, finally dropping me off at the bus station in Arequipa just before 3:00 p.m. that same afternoon. I was very tired, but energized at the same time.

Touring Arequipa

After a much needed day of rest, I took a city tour on April 21, 2015, exploring Arequipa and the surrounding areas.

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Taken from my seat in the top of my double-decker tour bus.

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Driving down one of the streets in this “White City”.

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Glancing back toward the center of Arequipa.

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A parade on the far side of the road as we drive down one street.

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Our first stop in the neighborhood of Yanahuara. This is an old church here. I tried to go inside, but it was closed.

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The sign on a nearby wall.

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There is a lookout area here with a view of the city, and the surrounding mountains / volcanoes.

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Looking back toward the town from the view area.

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Some statues in a courtyard below the view area.

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Hanging out and exploring.

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Heading back to my orange bus after enjoying the brief stop.

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Our driver went out of his way to drive over this very long bridge (about a kilometer), only to take a u-turn roundabout and to return back the the near side. We were told that it is the longest bridge in this part of the world.

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One of the beautiful volcanoes surrounding Arequipa. I believe this one is Chachani (but I could be wrong).

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And I think this beautiful volcano is “Misti”.

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Both of the previous photos were taken at the Mirador de Carmen Alto (view area of upper Carmen).

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I cannot remember the significance of this statue, but it was quite interesting.

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Looking back toward Arequipa from Carmen Alto.

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A church as we drive through the plaza in the Carmen Alto neighborhood.

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Soon, we stop at the traditional “commercial” stop on our tour. But this textile store has a fun little museum. This is our tour guide showing us the pictures of various types of llamas, alpacas, and related animals.

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This is one of the “spitting” llamas. Our guide warned us not to get to close.

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This is a Vicuña. These animals are wild, and are not raised in domestication. I saw several of them near the road as we crossed over the 16,000 foot mountain pass.

Apparently, their wool is extremely expensive, running at thousands of dollars for a small quantity.

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The poster showing Vicuñas, and several types of Alpacas.

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Soon, our tour took us out in the countryside. I loved the unique nature of these homes on the surrounding hills.

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… and this one, built atop a large rock.

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Later, we visited the home of the man who founded Arequipa.

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The place is called “The Mansion of the Founder”.

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The actual entrance.

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A few photos from inside.

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This is an ancient water filter. When the top rock is filled with water at bedtime, about a liter of water drips through the porous stone, out the tip, into the container before morning.

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Our tour guide, inside a little chapel here.

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And after the tour of the mansion is complete, we drive back to Arequipa, calling it a day. This is another view of the countryside, with the Misti Volcano in the background.

This ends my time in Arequipa. Early tomorrow morning I will be taking a bus to Nazca for the next leg of my adventures. See you in m next post.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

Photos – Arequipa Canyon Trek – April 2015

May 12th, 2015

On Friday, April 10, 2015, at around 3:00 a.m., I left my hotel in Arequipa and set off on an unforgettable adventure. After a three hour drive, climbing to and then descending from a 16,000 foot mountain pass (just under 5000 meters), I would then eat breakfast in the town of Chivay. Later, after driving another hour, with a stop to see the Condors at “Cruz Del Condor”, I would begin a three-day hike, descending 4000 feet (1200 meters) down into the bottom of Colca Canyon — a canyon in southwestern Peru that, in places, is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in Arizona.

I did not yet know it, but I would be part of a group of six – me, a young woman from the U.S., a young Peruvian couple from Puno, and two older gentleman from Germany. Then there was my tour guide, Roy, from the town of Arequipa.

This post contains 219 photos from that magical adventure, including detailed story narratives for each.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

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Arequipa is located in a hot desert, which is pretty much like most all of the Pacific-coast side of the Andes mountains. For the first part of our journey it was cold, cloudy, and dark outside. This photo is looking forward through the windshield of our 2o+ passenger van, just after sunrise.

You can see lots of the dry sagebrush-like plants on the roadside, and fresh snow on the high mountains not that far ahead. It is an interesting climate here.

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With a full zoom, looking at some very tall mountains in the distance. Most of the mountains around here are at least 16,000 feet and higher.

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You can see in this photo (as we near the 16,000 foot pass) that we are in an area with fresh show just ahead … but this snow melts during the day.

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In this photo, we are driving over (or very near) the top of the mountain pass. Absolutely nothing grows right here. It is lots of rock, with a dusting of snow. I went over this pass four times, with snow twice, and just dry rock the other two times.

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In this photo, we have gone over the top and are headed back down the other side, toward Chivay, which is at around 11,000 feet.

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That is Chivay in the distance, in the center of the photo, beyond the nearby hills. That is some kind of “Virgin Mary” religions photo hanging from the rear view mirror.

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Arriving in Chivay, with magical mountains in the distance.

I am sorry that these photos are not all that clear. The van’s windows were somewhat dirty and foggy.

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After breakfast at a small restaurant in Chivay (bread with butter and jam, plus a papaya juice), we began to drive through the upper reaches of Colca Canyon. This part is not very deep.

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The part of Colca Canyon where we will hike is down toward that mountain in the distance.

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The road soon turned to dirt as we made our way through many small towns and villages that line the rim of the canyon. I believe this one might be the town of “Maca”.

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More of the road leading toward the middle canyon area where we will hike.

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Looking down at more of the upper canyon (the shallow area).

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I was surprised when we passed through this very long tunnel. During my second trip through this tunnel, the driver turned off the lights in the darkest part … just to scare us … and his assistant played Michael Jackson’s “Thriller” song to add to the mood.

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As we near the exit to the tunnel, I got this cool photo. The road is dirt in here, and it is very dusty, adding to the mystical image.

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Almost out of the tunnel.

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Looking off to the right, toward the canyon area. It is starting to get greener and deeper.

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Passing through another small town.

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Little by little, we near the middle canyon area.

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The tops of these mountains that line the canyon are snow-capped. The bottoms are hot and dry.

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Finally, we stop at the “Cruz Del Condor” view area (crossing of the Condors). At this large view area, many majestic Condors often congregate and soar in the currents that rise from the depths of the canyon.

This is one of those beautiful Condors.

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And another.

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I love this one. It took great concentration to aim and focus the camera with just the perfect zoom. After several good shots, I put the camera down and just focused on being present, in person.

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Looking down toward the bottom of the canyon. It is somewhere, off in that direction, where we will be hiking.

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This is looking to the right, toward the upper canyon. You can barely see the river several thousand feet below (lower-left center).

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This is one of the markers here at the view area. It reads “Mirador … Cruz Del Condor” … meaning “View Area … Crossing of the Condor”.

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This part of the road was paved again (right in front of the view area).

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Here is another sign in “literally translated” English. I often make this same mistake when trying to translate English to Spanish – just taking one word and literally translating each word individually. In this case “Condor Cross” should be more like “Crossing of the Condors”.

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Finally, we are at the top of the trail … looking down at the valley where I will be hiking.

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Looking across the valley toward the town of Cosñirhua (middle). On our first day, we will hike down the near side of the canyon, 4000 feet to the river, and then back up 700 – 800 feet up the other side to the town of San Juan de Chucho. On the second day, we will hike further up the other side to Cosñirhua before descending back to the river at Sangalle.

In the upper right of this photo, you can see part of Tapay. I hiked there on my second trip into the canyon.

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In this photo, I am standing near the beginning of the trail, looking at the first part of the trail that goes off to the right. The trail follows the bottom of that rock cliff.

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More of the early trail. This part is much easier than the last parts. We go fairly level for more than a mile (with some decline) … then, when we reach a part where it is possible, we zig zag right down the side to the bottom.

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At one point, we can look down and see the Oasis Sangalle at the bottom, to our left. This is where we will spend our second night, just before hiking back out of the canyon.

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More of the upper trail. This one shows how the drop off to our left gets steeper and steeper.

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Purple wildflowers in the foreground with the trail continuing in the right-center distance. That is the river in the far center distance.

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The trail was fairly wide with good footing here on the early parts. Further down, it is steeper with lots of loose rock. I had to be extremely careful to maintain footing.

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Looking over the edge almost straight down toward the bottom, with the river below. If you look closely you can see some buildings above the river on the right side. That is the town of San Juan de Chucho, where I will be spending my first night.

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While hiking down one switchback to the left, I look off to the right where the trail continues. The cliff over there is quite steep.

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Looking up from the trail, back toward the top. We have not yet dropped down very far.

Remember, I am using a strong zoom with most of these photos.

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Another photo looking down at San Juan de Chucho, where we will sleep tonight. Yes, this is taken with a zoom. It is a long way down there.

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Following the young couple from Puno (Peru). Here name is Yeseña. I feel bad, but right now, I cannot remember his name. I have it in my voice recordings, but do not have time to go searching. They are a really delightful couple.

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This is Gunther … one of the delightful men from Germany. That is Bent (the other man from Germany) right behind him … and Roy (our tour guide) in the back, with the dark shirt and white cap.

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We have hiked 2 kilometers … just about 1.2 miles. It is about 9 kilometers to the bottom and back to San Juan de Chucho.

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This is Amada (my new friend from the U.S.) on the left, and Roy (our tour guide) on the right.

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Me, resting during a short break. I found this broken walking stick by the road, near the start of the trail. Roy had some local people patch it up with duct tape and then gave it to me. I used it all the way.

That is Bent behind me, looking quite tired.

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Roy. He was a very fun tour guide.

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More of the trail. This photo gives a good perspective on how narrow the trail was in places, with a steep drop off to the side. The first part is sort-of sloped … but then goes straight down.

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Gunther … Amada … Bent … Roy … and the young couple from Puno.

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Looking up the canyon (with a zoom).

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In the center foreground you can see the trail below. It seems to merge with the river in the far distance down below.

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With a very strong zoom, looking down at the bottom of the canyon. There is a bridge where we cross, not quite visible at the bottom of the photo.

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Another view looking down.

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Looking back to the left. We are beginning to drop down that cliff that has been below us all the way. That is the town of San Juan de Chucho in the right center, on the other side of the river. I will sleep there tonight.

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I love this photo as we go back and forth down switchbacks alongside this steep cliff.

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Amada and Roy down below.

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Similar, without the zoom. This is where the trail gets steep, narrow, and slippery with loose rock.

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Finally, we can see the bridge down there in the distance. This is taken with a zoom.

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And now, we are getting closer. Yippee !!!

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Amada, resting by the bridge.

We had to show our tickets here in order to cross to the other side. I did not know it on this trip, but when I come back here, I learn that my ticket only gives me the right to cross this bridge three times. Luckily, I only needed to cross it twice.

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Looking toward the other side.

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Looking upstream.

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Looking directly across.

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Me … tired, hot, and sweaty …

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… but also happy. I made it. (but not so happy that we have to climb a little on the other side to get up to San Juan de Chucho.)

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Looking down at the river as I cross.

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Looking downstream as I cross.

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And another upstream as I cross.

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After hiking a little way back up the other side, I take this looking back toward the bridge (and part of the trail).

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Looking back toward the lower part of the trail. We hiked above that highest cliff, then came down the mountain on the near side of the cliff. If you click on the photo to enlarge, you can also see Roy on the right side, as we take a short rest in the shade.

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Roy leading the way as we hike along the far side of the river, perhaps 600 feet above the bottom below on the left.

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Finally, we arrive at “Posada Gloria” … our home for the night. We eat lunch as soon as we arrive.

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Some of the group, visiting in the dining area.

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Lunch was actually quite delicious. First, we had a yummy soup … then a large plate of Lomo Saltado (sauteed beef with peppers, onions, and french fries).

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Looking down toward the dining area with the canyon wall on the far side. The start of the trail was at the very top center of this photo. We hiked along the ridge, heading left. Finally, we dropped down to the left of that cliff with a very steep zig zag.

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The bathroom area. That red tank is a solar-heated water tank.

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These flowers by the dining area really spoke to me. They remind me of the “Hollyhocks” that my grandmother grew in her garden when I was very young.

Somehow, these flowers were partly involved (along with that majestic canyon wall) in energetically drawing me to return to this spot. This was Friday evening. On Sunday morning we left the canyon, on Monday I rested in Arequipa, and on Tuesday morning I hiked back down here all by myself.

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More of the beautiful area of “Posada Gloria”. that is the dining area on the left, and the kitchen on the far left. Straight ahead at the end of the path was a tiny store where Gloria sold snacks and drinks.

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This part of the massive cliff across the canyon reminded me of the face of a wise old native/indigenous grandmother.

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Another view looking upstream and across the canyon.

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And another. The canyon wall just connected to my soul.

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A young couple put up a tent down below. Out of curiosity, I asked Gloria about staying here. I found out that she charges 10 soles per night to rent a room, and 10 soles for each meal (except 8 soles for breakfast) … allowing me to stay here for 38 soles per day (less that $13.00 US).

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After a yummy dinner and a much-needed sleep, we got up in the morning to a delicious crepe breakfast.

We began hiking again at just after 9:00 a.m. …

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the first part of the trail was quite easy … a slight upward slope, hugging the canyon wall.

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Looking back down in the direction of the river.

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Roy knew a lot about the plant medicines here. The young man from Puno had a cut on his head, and Roy put some type of plant sap on it to help it heal.

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Soon, we were hiking up a small canyon to the right.

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This mule asked us to move over so he could pass.

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They use the mules a lot here in the canyon. San Juan de Chucho has no road access … only hiking trails.

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Gunther, hiking in front of me.

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Roy, grabbing some little bugs off the cactus. I think they are called chinchinillas. They are tiny little insects in a white powder. I have seen them several times during textile demonstrations in Mexico and Guatemala. When you squeeze the bugs in your fingers, they contain a blood-red dye that is used to dye wool.

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Roy, holding some of them in his hand.

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He squished them and put some of the red dye on Bent’s arm.

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Then he proceeded to decorate Amada’s arm.

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They were having a lot of fun with the design.

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Soon, off in the distance, we saw the bridge that would take us across the small river on this side canyon.

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But first, Roy showed us this orange rock power on the ground by his shoe.

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We each got ceremonial stripes painted on our face. I like mine.

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Yeseña with her stripes.

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After crossing that little bridge, we had another steep and treacherous climb. It was only perhaps 400 to 600 feet up, but was very slippery and difficult.

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From part way up, looking back down to the trail far below.

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At the top of this trail we found a little store/restaurant/rest area, right on the edge of the village of Cosñirhua. There was a mirror on the wall, so I took a photo of me taking a photo of me with red stripes on my cheek.

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They were growing some guinea pigs here. I tried not to think about what they do with them (they eat them in Peru).

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Another selfie with stripes.

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From the rest area (Cosñirhua) looking back down across the canyon. You can barely see the river far below in the lower right center.

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Inside the little rest area, enjoying a breather.

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Roy and Amada resting.

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They have lots of fun things for sale here.

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As we hiked to the next village over (Malata), I did a full zoom on my camera and took a photo of the beginning of the trail on the far side of the canyon.

If you look closely, you can see a covered structure where the slope on the left reaches the middle and then goes flat to the right. That is the beginning of the trail from yesterday.

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This is the exact same photo, taken WITHOUT the zoom. The beginning of the trail is right there where the slope turns to flat — just minutes from the town of Cabanaconde.

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Hiking between Cosñirhua and Malata. There is a road here.

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The trail we will follow goes off through the trees in the far distance.

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The church in Malata. At this point we are about 1200 feet above the river, and soon we will be descending back to the river.

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The little town square in Malata.

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My group resting in Malata.

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The Malata church, with gorgeous very tall mountains in the background.

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Looking back (upstream) up the canyon from Malata.

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With full zoom, taken from the same spot, looking way back at the bridge that we crossed on the first day. (click to enlarge the photo)

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Me, having a delightful time.

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Another very similar photo. Both of these are taken looking up the canyon.

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Taken from the same spot, looking down the canyon to the right. Here is where we begin our descent. The first part is fairly gradual.

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Looking back up toward Malata and Cosñirhua (and even Tapay in the far distance).

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A cross along the trail. Many here are very religious.

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Looking toward our day-two destination back down by the river. That is the town or “Oasis” of Sangalle. There is a warm-water spring that feeds many swimming pools in the town.

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This is the source of the spring. It is not really hot water as they call it. It is barely warm enough to not be too cold to swim in.

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Roy and Amada, hiking below me.

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Finally nearing the river below once again.

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Kilometer eighteen, which is just over eleven miles so far on this trip.

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Approaching the bridge to cross the river, yet again.

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Almost there.

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Looking down as I cross over.

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… and on the other side (downstream).

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Yeseña, Amada, and Roy.

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Looking upstream, with the trail on the left (the one we just came down).

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And then, we have to hike UP again … puff puff … I finally make it.

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This is my room at our hotel.

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Another view of my room (on the right).

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Looking across the river from our hotel.

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A glimpse of our pool.

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Amada in the near corner, munching down some freshly picked mangos.

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A much better photo of the same (zoomed in).

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Roy and Amana by the pool. One side is a huge rock.

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Another view of those yellowish cliff across the river.

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Amada with both her arm-art and her orange stripes.

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Roy and Amana down by the pool.

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Guther and Bent talking by the pool (far left). That is a hammock in the foreground. I am taking this photo from another hammock.

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Looking across the canyon from a different angle.

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A different pool at another hotel, right below us.

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The environment here is quite tropical.

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Around 4:00 p.m., Roy took our group to show us a way down to the river below.

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We had a lot of fun playing down here.

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Looking upstream.

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My young Peruvian friend, on top a huge rock. I tried to follow him up there, but it was too high and slippery for me. The rock was almost polished.

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Looking downstream, with Gunther on the left.

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Me, loving the river.

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Amada, enjoying the cool evening air.

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Our group, hanging out and playing …

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Sitting on a whale (almost) …

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Another similar photo.

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And another …

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Amada on the same magical rock.

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Roy, on top of the same rock that I dared not climb.

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Me and Amada, with Gunther watching in the background.

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… and another with Amada and Brenda.

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My young Peruvian friend, being confidently adventurous.

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Just enjoying the feeling.

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On our way back from the river, we stopped in a large pasture and knocked oranges and another strange fruit out of some old abandoned trees.

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Holding a bunch of oranges.

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Amada, Gunther, and Bent … gathering firewood.

We all spent about a half hour enjoying the fruit and gathering firewood. We had planed a fun campfire for later.

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A local worker piled all of our wood in a huge clump that would never have burned efficiently.

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The huge clump …

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Roy then came over and rearranged it all, leaving lots of room for air. Being an eagle scout myself, I could easily have done the same, but I choose to simply watch and giggle.

We debated saving the fire till after dinner. I suggested that we start it now, because the weather looked threatening.

We were all glad that we started the fire when we did, because after about fifteen minutes, the skies opened up and we were rained out.

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Roy playing with the beautiful fire.

Not long after this we ran away because of the rain. After dinner, we all retired quite early. But first, I told Roy that I wanted to ride a mule to the top tomorrow.

Roy told us that we would be hiking out at 5:00 a.m., and that we needed to be at the top by around 8:00 a.m. … I knew I could make it to the top, but that it would take me at least four hours to do so, and I didn’t want to slow the group down … plus I have always wanted to ride the donkeys on the trails in the Grand Canyon, so why not ride mules here instead.

I was a little nervous about riding mules on these narrow, steep, slippery trails … but after checking my heart, the giggles said yes … I was excited to do it.

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I got up with my group at 4:30 a.m., so I could see them off. They began hiking at 5:00 a.m..

The mule guy was supposed to come at 5:30 a.m., but did not show up until almost 6:30 a.m.. I am glad I stayed behind, because Bent (who was also riding a mule) was quite sick and did not speak a word of Spanish. If I had not been there, I am not sure if he would have been able to get his own mule. I took care of him and made sure our mulero (mule handler) did not leave him behind.

These are four of the mules that came to pick up our group of seven (Bent, me, and five from other tours).

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Bent, barely able to stand up, as we wait for our ride.

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My main view for the next hour and forty minutes. I was clutching to the jagged metal edge of a homemade saddle, with the tips of my toes stuck into less-than-adequate stirrups, hanging on with a giggle while using every muscle in my ankles and feet to maintain my balance and stability.

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Another common view was looking at the tail end of Bent’s mule in front of me. In this photo he is quite far ahead, but usually, he was just a few feet ahead, with my mule’s head bumping into his mule’s behind.

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A more common view as we climb the rugged steep trail. I didn’t take too many photos because it was very difficult to hang on and to take photos at the same time. I didn’t want to lose concentration on the steep parts.

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And more typical view. I didn’t look to the side very much. It was quite nerve racking when the mule would stop on the edge of a steep drop off, just munching on some grass.

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I was a little nervous at first (more typical view) … but quickly decided that I had two choices. I could get to the top as a frazzled mess, or I could get to the top with giggles and relaxation. I choose the latter option.

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One of the few times I looked off to the side with my camera. If you look at the mountain to the left, across the canyon (at the far right side) you can see some zig zagging lines coming down the mountain. That is the trail we came down on yesterday (on day two).

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It WAS an eventful ride. At one point, our mulero (the mule handler with the red shirt and black backpack) stopped the lead mule and brought it back to position number four (where there was room) so that he could readjust the saddle.

When we resumed the climb, that mule was jostling for position because it wanted to get back to the lead position, but was now number four. It didn’t like that very much and kept trying to pass the woman behind me whenever the trail was barely wide enough.

As one point the mule tried to pass and both passengers fell to the ground as the mules collided. I was quite shocked to look down and see them both on the ground. Luckily both were OK. That mule continued to try to pass several more times, making me nervous.

Finally, the mulero got me down off my own mule, because my saddle was also starting to slip loose. After fixing my saddle, the mulero moved that alpha mule back to the front so he would not cause any more commotion.

I was quite glad when the ride became more peaceful again.

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Looking  back down at the bottom below. This is with a lot of zoom. We are very high right here.

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It seemed that on every switchback, my mule would first go as far forward as he could, and would then begin to turn his head to reposition himself on the sharp bend.

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It seems I got ahead of myself with previous narratives. That previous photo was when the first saddle adjustment was happening. This is my mulero adjusting my own saddle. This young man walked all the way up the mountain, chasing and guiding the mules as if he were not the least bit tired.

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Finally, after about an hour and forty-five minutes, we neared the top. When Roy saw me, he ran to ask me for my camera. Then ran back to the top to snap these final photos. I am so glad that he did that.

In this one, I raise my arms in the air, feeling quite exhilarated.

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And my mulero holding the mule for a couple of final photos before I dismount.

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When my feet first hit the ground, I could hardly stand up. Having to use my foot and ankle muscles all the way to the top was quite strenuous in its own way.

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From the top, looking back toward the rim of the canyon.

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Looking across the canyon. Just right of center, behind the near ridge, you can barely see the town of Malata down there.

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We hiked for about fifteen minutes to get from the top of the trail back to the town of Cabanaconde. Part of the hike involved moving through beautiful corn fields.

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My only casualty on the mule ride was a tiny blister on my right hand – on the spot where I was clinging to that rough metal-rimmed homemade saddle. The blister went away within a couple of days.

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The view up here was gorgeous. These are some nearby mountains towering above the skyline.

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Same mountains, less zoom.

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Amada, taking photos on the way back to Cabanaconde.

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Me, Amana, and my young friends from Puno, posing in the beautiful scenery.

Soon, we were enjoying a delightful breakfast in the town of Cabanaconde.

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On our drive back toward Chivay, our van stopped in the middle of the road. Some local children were dressed up in traditional clothing and dancing … hoping for some tips.

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Looking down in the shallower, upper canyon area, as we head back toward Chivay.

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More scenery on the way back.

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… and more of the upper canyon.

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… more of the same.

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Stopping at a view area.

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Stopping in the town of Maca. This huge hawk caught my attention.

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But first, I wanted to see the local church. I love the old architecture.

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… and a similar photo, but with me posing in front of the gate.

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… another one with me in it.

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Inside the old church.

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Soon, that beautiful hawk caught more than just my attention.

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It was one thing to have that huge bird on my left arm. It felt quite different to have those powerful claws gripping at a hat on my head.

You might want to click on this photo to see the details. That huge hawk is on my head.

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Me reaching into my purse to tip the woman making this opportunity fun for both of us.

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Goofing around at lunch, making a silverware pyramid. We ate lunch at a delicious buffet in Chivay.

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After leaving Chivay, we climbed back to the top of that 16,000 foot pass, and got out of the van for a short stop. There were many vendors up there, hoping to sell things to tourists.

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The painted sign on this rock says we are at 4,910 meters above sea level, which is more or less 16,000 feet.

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Amada and I taking a photo together on top the mountain pass. It was very cold up here.

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Another rock sign labeling “Misti Volcano” off in the distance. That volcano is 5,825 meters, or over 18,000 feet.

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And another sign labeling “Chachani Volcano” as 6,075 meters, almost 19,000 feet.

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Some of the mountains in the distance as seen from the pass.

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The top of this pass is very barren … lots of rock with a few ponds of snow melt.

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Me, sitting on top.

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A pile of rocks that I built to mark my presence on top this mountain pass. That rock on top came from the river at the bottom of Colca Canyon.

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Back in the van, headed back to Arequipa.

It was a magical three days of hiking, adventuring, and making new friends. I arrived at my hotel in the mid afternoon, and crashed for most of the day.

On Monday, rested, did some laundry, and made arrangements to do it all over again on Tuesday, but this time without the tour guide, and without the schedule.

I am so grateful that I followed my heart and went on this trip. The mind chatter in my head (and one travel agent) had tried to tell me that I couldn’t do it. I went anyway, and I DID do it, and had a marvelous and magical time.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

Photos – April 2015 – Tours Around Cusco

May 3rd, 2015

On March 31, 2015, I left Calca and went to spend what turned out to be four nights with my dear friend Sufi (at her home in Taray, about 30 minutes away).

After that magical visit I finally (on April 4) moved all of my belongings to a small hostel in Cusco. My guidance had been to leave Calca at the end of March, but I have always known deep inside that it is time to play a little while I begin to move north, and that there is no important timing – at least for now.

So, as I arrived in Cusco, I decided to take a couple of the tours that I had wanted to do – but had not yet done during my more than a year in the Cusco area.

This post contains about 180 photos that document those tours.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

A0 - Brenda Cornfield

As I did on my last post, I begin with a photo of me back in Calca. My friend Diana just uploaded this to Facebook a little while ago, and I liked it so much that I wanted too add it to my blog.

When we did a ceremony together in December, Diana took this photo of me while I played in a cornfield, across the river from my house. That was a fun and magical day.

Maras Moray Tour

The ruins of Maras Moray and the nearby salt mines have fascinated me from afar … but before now, I had still not visited them in person.

Early on the morning of April 5, 2015, I ventured out to resolve this lack …

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Our first stop was in the high mountain town of Chinchero, where we visited an indigenous textile factory. This photo shows a table filled with natural products that are used to dye the wool.

I didn’t take many photos here because I have seen this process several times in Mexico and in Guatemala.

Maras Moray

Maras Moray is a beautiful place at the northern end of the Sacred Valley, between Chinchero and Ollantaytambo. I would try to describe it to you, but the photos do a much better job at that.

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This is just a scene along the road as we draw near to Maras Moray.

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And here, we are beginning to drive through the little town of Maras.

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Continuing through the town.

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Entering the archeological site of Moray, located in the region of Maras.

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A little scenery just before arriving at the site.

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A sign at the entrance, showing the layout of the ruins.

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A first glance from above. The ruins are a series of terraces that go deeper and deeper into the ground.

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Our tour guide, sharing lots of hot air about various theories of what the ruins were used for. No one really knows for sure. It is all speculation.

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A shallower, less-restored section of the ruins.

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Closer view of the same. We are not allowed to go down inside.

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And even closer…

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A close view of the bigger, more restored area.

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The upper end of this region. The lower part is circular … this part sticks out into a large oval.

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Apparently, this area (sector) is called Qechuyoq Muyo.

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Looking from the shallow end toward the deep end.

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Another similar view, including the gorgeous yellow flowers.

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A zoomed in image from the same spot.

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Given that I am on a tour, we only had a short time to be back up at the bus. I took this photo as I was about halfway back to the top.

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From closer to the top, looking back down.

Minas Salineras

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Soon, we were on our way to the salt mines. This photo is from the road as we approach from the other side of the canyon.

You will need to click on this photo to enlarge it and see the detail.

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Another view of the upper half of the salt mines. The little pool areas can be seen better if you enlarge the photo.

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Zooming in closer, looking at the salt pools from above.

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And zooming in even closer. There is a salty spring just uphill, and the water is carefully channeled off into these pools all over the hillside, where the water evaporates and the salt crystallizes.

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And a full zoom of the same.

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I am now entering the mines on foot. This woman is harvesting some of the salt that has crystallized.

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This is where the salty spring flows down a small ditch and feeds the entire hillside. I stuck my fingers in this water and licked them. It was extremely salty.

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With less zoom, looking at the little channel that feeds all the pools.

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More of the pools, as seen from directly above.

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From the middle of the mine area, looking back up at the tourist facilities, and at the little channel of salty water that feeds all the pools.

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And from the same spot, but looking to the left, away from the tourist facilities.

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Looking at the hillside below me to the left.

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The wall between a higher pool and a lower one.

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Looking down at some really white, fully crystallized pools.

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Some really white crystals. I grabbed some of these and put them in my mouth. Yummy salt. While in Calca, I often used salt from these mines.

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I took this photo on my way out. You can clearly see here that the woman has a bowl of beautiful white salt (on lower left).

Pikillaqta

On April 6, 2015, I took another tour. This one stopped at a couple of ruins, plus a famous small town.

The first of the ruins was one called Pikillaqta (pee-key-YAWCK-tuh). It is from the Wari civilization, and used a mixture of adobe and rock.

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This is my tourist ticket for the region, with the Pikillaqta section having a hole in it (meaning I have now been here).

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A huge wall just above the parking lot.

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My tour bus … there were more than twenty in my group.

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Looking up at the hillside filled with old walls.

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A couple of structures were covered to keep the rain from damaging them.

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Looking down into one of the structures.

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Same place, less zoom.

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Another inside view.

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And another.

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The other building as seen from above.

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We soon walked through part of the nearby hillside. There is a huge complex of walls here.

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Tall and straight … like main roads.

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Looking down a road to the side.

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Looking at one wall. I’m guessing much of this has been cleaned and restored.

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Looking down at some walls from above.

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Another big road area.

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And bringing in some flowers to make it prettier.

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Looking down another very long pathway.

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And a glance behind the wall.

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From above, looking down toward the two structures with roofs.

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Some very interesting flowers.

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And another long path. Our guide says these little short structures on both sides are to hold the wall up during earthquakes.

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Our guide, talking about the un-excavated space behind him. He says that this is a path that goes back for a very long distance (I think he said a kilometer or more).

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Back to the structures with roofs to protect them.

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Looking at some more walls across this field.

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The sign at the entrance/exit of the ruins.

Andahuaylillas

Next, we visit the famous village of Andahuaylillas (pronounced on-duh-why-LEE-yuhs). We are given a couple of options, but I focus on the museum and the church.

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This is just a sign by the highway, to remind me of where we are.

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I had heard that the museum has some elongated skulls, and I was eager to seem them in person.

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This is the first one I saw.

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I giggled as I saw this one with straps wrapped around it, showing how scientists speculate that they restricted the skull to make it taller and skinnier …

I giggled because this theory makes no sense to me. So much evidence says that the inner area of the skull has a much bigger volume than a human skull would have. Simply restricting the skull with straps would not have increased the volume … There has to be a more mystical explanation.

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Some speculate that the skulls are from an alien race. I tend to believe this is more plausible than the other explanations.

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Two other skulls, behind a glass display.

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The same two skulls, seen from a  different angle.

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When I walked by this one on the way out, I was shocked to see that it was just sitting here with no protections whatsoever – and no signs saying “do not touch”.

I took the opportunity and did touch … wow, such an opportunity. So many of the treasures of this region have no security …

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The church of Andahuaylillas …beautiful inside, and over 400 years old. Photos were not allowed.

Tipon

Next, we go to the ruins of Tipon. I had never heard of these ruins before Diana told me about them in mid-march. The main reason I took the tour was to see them.

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This is taken from the hill above the town of Tipon, looking down at the valley.

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Tipon is famous for its sacred springs. This is where the water leaves the lower end of the ruins.

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Looking up from the lower end of the ruins.

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… and from a little higher. You can begin to see the upper area now.

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In the middle, looking across at the little streams on the other side.

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The top of the ruins, as seen from the other side.

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From near the top, looking down toward the valley below.

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From near the top, looking down the right side of the ruins.

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Some flowers in the area.

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The sacred springs for which Tipon is famous. A single spring feeds a channel of water at the top. That is divided into two little water falls (top right) … which then channel back to a single stream, which is then divided into four water falls (middle) … which then rejoin each other below.

Our guide told us that the four falls represent the four directions or four roads into the Cusco region … and that the two falls represent the male and female leaders who settled the region of Cusco. At least that is the version given to me by the guide …

A dear friend tells me there are some very sacred higher dimensional portals here …

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Some of the water flowing below the sacred spring (water falls).

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Looking down the valley from above.

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I asked the tour guide what is up that trail. He told me that there is a Sun Temple up there. I really wanted to go, but did not have time.

By now, I was feeling deep guidance to leave the tour and to just stay here on my own. It was no surprise when I followed that guidance. I soon told the guide that I would not be returning with the bus.

I had seen some Cusco buses down below in the town (about 40 minutes walking) and knew that I could easily get back to Cusco on my own.

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Looking down from above. The springs start at the right center where the people are.

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The springs are in the center of this photo. (You cannot see them from here).

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Looking up toward the four waterfalls from below.

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Looking toward ME, from in front …

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This is the upper area of the springs. The water enters from the ground below me, runs in a single channel …. and is then split below into two … then one … then four … then one …

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A view of the split channels …

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And some gorgeous flowers to match my peaceful, energized state.

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More spring water running down a path at the side of the ruins.

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Finally, it was time for me to start walking home. This is the parking lot where the bus was … but is no more. I had to walk to the village far below.

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And the hike begins … it was steep, with lots of stair steps … but not a hard hike at all. I was down the the valley floor in about twenty minutes.

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Looking back up at the lower part of the trail.

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Walking back to the town, I saw this huge cactus that had come down in a previous mudslide.

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Looking back … the Tipon ruins are on top of this hill, with steep switchbacks in the road. My trail went straight up … (or should I say down) … the middle part with smaller switchbacks.

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On my way back to town, I stopped at a little rural zoo that the guide pointed out to us as we drove up the hill. They had a wide variety of animals from Peru.

These are obviously some beautiful owls.

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Magical parrots …

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And an un-caged parrot keeping watch over what I think was a boa constrictor.

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A couple of beautiful hawks.

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Not sure what these large birds are …

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And an unhappy Condor. These birds want room to fly …

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From the top of the zoo, looking back at the road below.

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The zoo’s sign … “Zoologico Mundo Andino” … or Zoo of the Andes World.

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A picture of the bus company’s logo (I took a minvan) … I want to remember it so I can find it again later.

As we drove home, a huge storm unleashed its fury over Cusco. Even with an umbrella, I got quite wet when I had to leave the minivan to walk back to my hostel. My shoes were very wet.

Tipon Ceremony

While meditating for my extra time up at the ruins of Tipon, I received strong intuitive guidance to come back again the next day … by myself … and to do a ceremony here, for the entire day.

The guidance was so clear that I did not question it … I simply made plans and implemented them.

At 6:00 a.m. on April 7, 2015, I left my hostel and arrived at my bus stop in the midst of a light drizzle. It had rained hard most of the night, but nothing was going to stop me from following my guidance. I knew that either the rain would stop, or else that I would be doing a ceremony in the rain.

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I arrived in the town of Tipon at about 7:30 a.m., and immediately began climbing the trail to the ruins. I arrived at the entrance gate at around 8:30 a.m., tired, but determined.

The rain had stopped, but there was still a dark cloud cover … I just kept going.

This is a photo of the ruins as I climbed back into them. The ground was very wet and the clouds low.

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Looking down at the valley. I was encouraged by the fact that some blue patches were already beginning to form over the valley area.

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But the sky above was still very thick with clouds … the sun was barely glowing in a brilliant circle.

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The ruins were gorgeous as I sat on a dry bench, under a little shelter, beginning my ceremony and drinking my Huachuma.

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After a while, the sun began to break through, and I felt an urge to hike … up toward the Sun Temple above.

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So I started climbing. This is a view of the upper part of the ruins from about half way up the trail.

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Following the signs, wondering what this Sun Temple is all about …

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Soon, the answers came. It is a very old structure on top of the hill that overlooks Tipon.

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After exploring the ruins, I noticed a trail leaving the back side of the Sun Temple. It soon became a fascinating journey as I found an ancient (and original) Inca Canal. It just goes up … and up …. and up….

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In this spot, they built a wall to fill in the low spot so that the canal could keep going.

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I soon saw this sign (Canal Inca) … confirming my thoughts.

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Then I looked to my right and was what looks as if it were an ancient Inca ceremonial / government space.

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I will include more photos later. It is a large circular area, overlooking the ruins below, with lots of seats here and there in the wall.

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And the beautiful canal goes onward and upward …

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Looking off to the side.

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… an looking down into the valley far below … with that Inca ceremonial site right below in the foreground.

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Once I reach a crest in the hill, the canal just keeps going up.

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… and up.

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… and up.

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… a not quite as steep area.

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Looking into the canal, it still has a small stream. The rocks are so accurately placed that the water does not leak out.

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This face on the side of the hill caught my eye. It looks like teeth in a semi-circle at the bottom … a nose just above them … and two eyes a little higher, at the base of the rock area …

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And up some more …

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As I contemplated just how far I might climb with this Inca Canal, I saw this faded sign … pointing to the left, to a place called Pukara. I had no idea what it was, but followed the sign anyway … just because.

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The trail was more level here, and very beautiful.

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Looking forward across a valley.

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I was surprised to see that I had entered an area of agriculture.

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… and gorgeous flowers.

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More unique flowers.

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As I reached the crest of the hill, I saw that blue tarp in the distance and wondered if that might be where I am going.

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This much clearer sign confirmed my suspicion.

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Soon, I was catching a glimpse of a huge complex of ruins – one not even mentioned in the main tour books.

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Looking down with a zoom.

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A large crew was working on restoring parts of the upper area.

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… and a view of the lower area as I enter the area.

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The construction does not look like Inca. It looks like Wari, like the Pikillaqta ruins from yesterday. I soon ask a worker and she confirms that it is a large Wari sight.

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… some areas are quite well preserved (and/or restored).

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Part of the main area. I sat inside here and meditated for a while.

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It was inside this wall where I meditated.

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Looking down from the lower area of the ruins.

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It was fun to be in a place that is so unaffected by tourists, and still being worked on.

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More beautiful walls.

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Slightly different view of the same.

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… and another.

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This part looks almost like the Inca style … perhaps they lived here after the Wari …

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Hiking back up the hill from Pukara.

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And another glance backward, through the gorgeous flowers.

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I heard some noise and saw this little boy playing while his mother works in the field.

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Being in ceremony, I was very connected to the plants all around me. I thought these were gorgeous.

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Back to the Inca Canal, I found the spot where water was entering. Above this spot, the channel was dry.

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Loved these cactus plants as I walked by them.

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Especially loved this one … this is a side view … it is growing out of the side of the hill.

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Following the canal back down.

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Upon reaching the ceremonial site, I decided to climb down inside.

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The view from the ceremonial site, looking back down at Tipon far below.

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Taken from the same spot, turned around 180 degrees, looking at this area that I an only presume is a ceremonial site or place of leadership.

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All around the sides of this circle are what look like seats for the leaders or perhaps the priests.

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I know I am just creating another story here. I have no way of knowing what actually took place … just intuitive hunches.

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I love this one from down in the circle, with the canal at the top left.

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And this similar one with different lighting. You have to enlarge these to really see the beauty here.

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Finally, arriving back at the Sun Temple.

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I hadn’t noticed it before, but the canal runs right down into the middle of this room.

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A view from below, looking at where the canal enters the room, runs through that fountain/pool structure, and then leaves out the other side.

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A view of Tipon as I walk down from the Sun Temple.

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Zooming in on the sacred spring / waterfalls far below.

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When I reached the springs below, it was a perfect opportunity to connect with those waters.

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A look at the Inca rock walls.

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Looking down the ruins from the right side.

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Looking back down at the town of Tipon below.

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It is time to leave. I stopped part way down and took this looking up. I took a different trail to the bottom this time … a trail built by the Incas themselves.

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Looking down the trail at the switchbacks in the road far below.

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Once at the bottom, I followed this dirt road until I reached the paved highway.

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After joining the road, right here, I was back in the town of Tipon about twenty-five minutes later, where I easily caught a large bus that dropped me off an hour later just a half mile from my hostel.

Cusco Wrap-Up

I loved my extra three days in the Cusco area. It was a magical opportunity to see more places that I had not yet visited … and to do a beautiful ceremony up at the ruins of Tipon.

I am so profoundly grateful for my eleven months in the Cusco region (with nine of that being in Calca) … soooo profoundly grateful for the healing and growth that has been more than life-changing.

After one more day resting, doing laundry, and packing, I was ready to move on … beginning the migration part of my journey northward. I was feeling deeply drawn to Arequipa.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

Photos – Mar 2015 – Sacred Valley Play

May 3rd, 2015

In mid March 2015, I began final preparations to say goodbye to my home in Calca. Part of that preparation involved leaving my isolation / retreat-mode behind and re-integrating socially in ways that were fun and magical.

This post is a short one, containing only 63 photos from my last couple of weeks in the Calca area.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

A0 - Dec 2014 - River Playground

I begin this post with a photo of me sitting by the river. My dear friend Diana took this photo while she was visiting in December, 2014. On March 17, 2015, she arrived back in Calca to take over my home – my River Playground.

Pisac Ruins – Finally

On March 18, 2015, my friend Annetteka was in town with her mother. I first met Annetteka in Valladolid, Yucatan, Mexico while I was recovering from a third-degree burn in 2010. She visited me a couple of times while I was in Guatemala, and now she decided to visit me for a day, here in Peru.

Her visit was a great catalyst for me to finally go see the Pisac Ruins, which are situated only thirty minutes from my home in Calca.

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The ruins are on top of the mountain that towers over the town of Pisac.

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These old Inca Ruins are quite spectacular.

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My friend Annetteka and her mother Vibeka

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Looking down from above.

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Another view from higher up.

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The ruins with the typical Inca terraces behind.

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Exploring …

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Terraces covered by nature.

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Walking to a different part of the ruins.

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Some traditional Inca Stonework on the walls.

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The three of us having a blast.

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And another of the same.

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Looking down at some lower ruins (with some zoom).

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Looking down with strong zoom. That area of houses on the valley floor is part of Pisac – a neighborhood called Rinconanda. I lived for about a month in a house down there, just left of center.

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And another photo with full zoom, looking down at the town of Pisac below.

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If you look closely, you can see a couple of tiny structures on the left ridge of this cliff. This mountain towers over Pisac below.

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Annetteka, with Pisac behind, down in the valley. if you look closely, you can see a road zig-zagging up that mountain behind her. Just to the right of her head you can see the road disappear behind the mountain. This is the road that leads to Cuzco, which is on top of the mountains, on the other side of them, about forty minutes away by minivan.

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Me, with Pisac behind me.

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And another similar view.

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Annetteka, enjoying the beautiful view.

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More of the ruins below us.

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The sun goes behind the mountain quite early up here.

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Standing near the entrance gate, looking back toward the now-shady ruins.

Templo De La Luna

The “Temple of the Moon” is a small area up on the mountain above Cusco. During my time in the Sacred Valley, I had repeatedly heard about it, but never been to see it.

When Diana was here, I decided to go see it with her, spending the day there as we celebrated the Fall Equinox (Spring in the northern hemisphere) on March 20, 2015. I also had the pleasure of making a new friend, Mele.

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Mele, Diana, and me … siting by the entrance to a small ceremonial cave.

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Diana, sitting on the hill, outside. The Temple of the Moon is carved into a huge rock hill.

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Looking from the same spot, out across the valley. Just above that trail over there is a ceremonial cave.

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A natural cave in  the Temple of the Moon.

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A view of the temple area from one side. Mele is up there in the lower middle.

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Mele and Diana, meditating on the side of the hill.

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Diana …

Lares Hot Springs

On March 27, 2015, wanting to sit in magical hot springs one more time, I guided my friends Diana, Mele, and Todd, over the mountains on the two hour drive to Lares Hot Springs. I was there in November with Jeanette and have been craving a return visit ever since.

I first met Diana in Guatemala, and then at the “Temple of the Way of Light” during my retreat in Iquitos. I met Todd at the “Temple of the Way of Light”. He was my facilitator there. Diana and Todd met Mele at the temple, and I met her last week.

Since I have been here before, I only took a few photos get more information.

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Looking down at the hot springs resort from a view area high up on the other side of the canyon.

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Diana, sitting nearby, up at the lookout point.

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Looking down and to the left. In the lower part of the photo is an artisan shop, and by it is a small fish hatchery. In the direct middle of the photo are some caves that you can barely see from this distance.

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Zooming in on the middle cave. It is an ancient burial site.

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A tiny bit less zoom. There used to be a mummy in there, but it is missing now. Two young local boys told us that just recently, someone had stolen it.

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Todd (zoomed in) standing on another little lookout point below, and a couple hundred feet to our left.

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I love the vegetation up here on this mountain side. All of it seems to be speaking to me as I walk by.

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Diana, wrapped up because of the morning cold.

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Todd, off in the distance, looking down toward the town of Lares.

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Last night, at dinner, I gave some fish to the cat and one dog. Today, they just gravitated to me as I sat here waiting for my friends. This photo was NOT posed.

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Another impromptu photo shoot.

Ankasmarca Or Bust

On the way to Lares, high atop a mountain prior to going over the 14,000 foot pass, we saw these ruins off to the left. Diana and Todd really wanted to come back and stop here on our way home. With as much as I have traveled, I was nervous about stopping here, because I didn’t know how we would get back to Calca. The rare buses that pass by here are usually quite full.

Todd and Diana told me they were going to show me another level of traveling, so I put my life in their hands.

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The sign by the road.

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Hiking up the trail.

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A little sign as we get closer.

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A view of the ruins in the distance.

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And gorgeous natural colors.

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This is a view from where we stopped to eat lunch.

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Todd, Diana, and Mele. We pooled our resources and had tuna fish sandwiches, carrots, cookies, cashews, apples, and whatever else we could find in our bags.

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I was eager to see the ruins, so I left my friends behind and began to explore.

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This whole area is covered in partial ruins, most of them circular dwellings, built by ancient people.

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Using my zoom to spy on my friends from above.

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Zooming in on a local woman down below.

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Looking to the right (up the valley). The mountain pass (14,000 foot) on the way to Lares is just to the left of that distant peak.

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Looking across and slightly down the valley.

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More of the ruins.

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Very typical …

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Zooming in from way above … they are still eating.

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Zoomed in on a tiny friend below.

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… and more ruins.

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Finally, I got to the main part of the ruins – the part we saw from the highway. When I saw how steep it was, I decided not to walk down there.

You will need to click on the photo to enlarge it if you want to see the magical detail here.

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Another sign as we walk back to the highway.

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Me, Todd, and Mele … waiting for someone to pick us up. Several vans passed by, but they were construction vehicles and would not stop.

I was getting nervous as the sun was setting (after more than a half hour) and we still didn’t have a ride. It would have taken us many hours to walk back to Calca.

My friends just giggled at my silliness. Finally, a taxi cab pulled up to drop off a young boy. As it turns out, it was a collective taxi, with destination Calca, and we were the first three customers to begin the return journey.

Wrap-up

March was a fun and magical transition period for me – a delightful opportunity to hang out with friends while slowly saying goodbye to my special retreat-home of the last nine months.

Todd hung around for a couple of days, doing ceremonies with Diana and I.

Then, with my bags all packed, I sat out by the river on the morning of March 31, 2015. I was very surprised when, as I said goodbye to my playground, and as I reminisced about the profound healing that took place here, that I burst out into deep sobs. They were not tears of sadness – they were tears of deep gratitude.

My river playground in Calca served it’s purpose beautifully. As I later climbed into a moto-taxi, I was not even close to being the same person that moved here in July, 2014.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

Following The Flow

April 29th, 2015

As the month of April rapidly comes to a close, I want to try to squeeze in another few hours of writing, partially catching up on what has been a beautiful and amazing six weeks since my last blog posting.

As I wrote in that blog on March 16, 2015, my passion for writing was alive and shining, and it still is. The only thing stopping me from writing is that I have been on the move ever since.

In the words that follow, I will summarize the unfolding magic, and will then finish off by including several pieces of writing that I have written as part of my friends’ project.

Final Playground Giggles

My friend Diana finally arrived at my house just the day after I finished my week-long spurt of posting photos and writing. Having had no time to rest, I jumped headfirst into a flurry of new activities. Within a day of her arrival, Diana made a firm decision that she did indeed want to take over the renting of my house. Her heart strongly called her to stay in Calca and to enter her own version of retreat mode.

The final two weeks of March became a magical time warp. Perhaps you know the feeling – a feeling of time zooming by in a blink, yet at the same time, each day seems like a lifetime. Besides the busywork details of me showing Diana all of the ropes regarding my house and river playground, we also played a great deal.

Those transition weeks were filled with social activities as several mutual friends came for visits. We did numerous ceremonies together, took a trip to Lares Hot springs, visited the “Temple of the Moon” near Cusco, and simply hung out together.

I don’t believe I have been this social for a very long time – and my heart giggled the entire time.

Moving On

But by the last day of March, my heart was also doing something else. A deep sense of inner knowing made it quite clear that it was indeed time to finish packing up my bags. For two months I had felt very strong guidance – guidance telling me to begin my new journey at the end of March. At the same time, that guidance was quite vague, simply telling me I get to play a little too as I take my time and begin to head north.

As I write these words at the end of April, I am quite clear that these last four weeks have been a magical opportunity to learn to live in a flow of present moment whispers – to learn to trust my heart-based hunches and to simply follow them without knowing why.

And that is exactly what I have done.

Early on March 31, 2015, my sweet landlord carried my bags out to the street for me, and soon flagged down a little tuk-tuk to take me to the nearest collectivo mini-van. In the course of saying goodbye to Abelardo (landlord), he hugged me at least five times. With one final hug from both Abelardo and Diana, I turned, stepped into the cramped seat of the tuk-tuk, and began to bounce all over as the driver accelerated rapidly down that bumpy pothole-filled street.

My first feeling was to go visit my dear friend Sufi for a day or two before leaving the Sacred Valley. To my surprise, I ended up staying in her spare bedroom for four days while we shared several ceremonial experiences together. I am so grateful for the deep bond of friendship that the two of us have developed since we first met in Guatemala, way back in the fall of 2011.

To Cusco And Tipon

When I got to Cusco, I felt guided to begin playing tourist, taking in a few activities that I had not yet done during my almost-year in the Sacred Valley. The first day I took a tour to the northern end of the Sacred Valley, visiting the ancient Inca site of Maras Moray, followed by a visit to the ancient salt mines just a short distance away. It was a tour I had been wanting to do for a long time, but had never gotten around to doing.

On the second day, I took another tour to the valley south of Cuszo, visiting several fascinating sites and pueblos. We finished the tour at a place called Tipon – an ancient Inca site high atop a mountain. As I sat by a sacred spring, my heart could feel the magical energy of that place. I loved it so much that I told the tour guide that I was staying behind and that I would find my own way home. I knew that after a thirty minute walk down the mountain that I would be able to take a bus back to Cusco – one that would pass a street just ten minutes from my hotel.

A little over an hour later, as the sun began to hide behind clouds, I hiked reverently down a steep path. A new plan filled my heart. I knew I needed to come back, tomorrow, by myself, and do a Huachuma ceremony here.

My bus arrived back in Cusco at just after 5:00 p.m., in the middle of torrential rains – rains that continued all night. But my plans were not dampened in the least.

At 6:20 a.m. on the next morning, I began walking back to the bus stop. The skies were dark and a light rain continued to drizzle – but my plans were still not at all discouraged by the moisture. My heart told me to keep going, so I did.

As I eventually I hiked up the steep mountain path to the Tipon ruins, the rain had stopped and the clouds appeared to show signs of possible thinning – yet the grass and bushes around me were all drenched. I continued to hike with confidence, reaching the entrance gate at 8:30 a.m.. The security guard smiled at me, acknowledging that just last evening she had given me permission to come back on the same two-day tourist ticket – even though it was already stamped for Tipon.

After a brief rest on a dry bench in a little shelter overlooking the ruins, I drank my dose of Huachuma and began to meditate while occasionally watching the clouds. Over the next hour the sky shifted from all grey to mostly blue and sunny. My guidance had been spot on and the weather was beautiful.

I spent the day basking in the energy of my ceremony, simply following my heart while hiking and meditating – and also channeling a lot of guidance into my voice recorder. In my extensive hiking, I even discovered another area of ruins about a mile away – one that was in the midst of being excavated by a large crew of local workers.

I am so grateful that I followed my heart and went back for this magical day of ceremony – leaving that “tour guide” behind and spending beautiful quiet time in such a sacred space.

Arequipa Adventures

Early the next day, I took a city bus to Cusco’s large “terminal terrestre” (ground terminal – or bus station). By mid-morning I was holding bus tickets for an overnight bus to Arequipa – a city in southwestern Peru, often called “The White City” because most of the buildings in the historic center were built from a white stone that is common in the area.

I had heard both good and bad things about this second-largest-city-in-Peru. It is located in a very dry desert region at an altitude of around 7,000 feet (a little over 2000 meters) above sea level. The whole surrounding region is extremely brown and barren, with much of the landscape reminding me of parts of the Utah and Nevada deserts back home.

Surrounding Arequipa are three volcano systems and gorgeous snow-capped mountains, many of them well over 16,000 feet in altitude. These mountains are spectacular when you can see them through the clouds; but I was not going to Arequipa to see the volcanoes. My heart was yearning to check out a famous canyon just over four hours away – a canyon called “Colca Canyon”. The tour books say that parts of Colca Canyon are twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in Arizona.

Cola Canyon Calling

At 1:30 a.m. on the day after arriving, I was up and scurrying around my bedroom, backing up things on my computer while preparing to catch a 3:00 a.m. tourist bus. My head had fought the idea, telling me this hike was too strenuous – but my heart said otherwise, and easily won the debate. I was going on a three-day trek, descending 4,000 feet (1200 meters) into the bottom of Colca canyon.

The drive to the canyon is beautiful as it passes over the top of a 16,000 foot mountain pass before descending back down to the town of Chivay. Then, after another hour of driving at the 11,000 foot level, we began our 4,000 foot descent on foot.

It was long and arduous trail, often narrow, with lots of switchbacks. The trail was quite slippery in places because of loose dirt and rock. I walked very slowly, choosing my footing very carefully. I never actually fell down, but I constantly caught myself as my feet started to slide. Finally, we made it to the bottom.

On the morning of the second day in the canyon, I sat on the grass at a small hostel named “Posada Gloria”. While meditating quietly, I stared up at the magical mountain that towered above me, just across the river below.

“You need to come back here by yourself and do ceremonies,” my heart voice silently screamed.

“And we are not talking about some day on a future trip … we are talking about next week.” The guidance continued quite strongly.

I did not even question the intuitive guidance. I giggled as I asked Gloria about the possibility of returning to her hostel. I giggled even more when I found out that I could stay here for a grand total of 35 soles – or $12.00 US per night – and that included three full meals.

After my second day of hiking, my head was again second-guessing that silly heart-guidance encouraging me to come back. I was exhausted and did not think myself capable of hiking out of the canyon in the morning. I knew I could do it if I had four or five hours, but the tour guided said we had to do it in three. When I found out that riding a mule to the top was an option (for $20 US), I decided to give it a go. I had always thought it would be fun to ride the donkeys on the trails of the Grand Canyon in Arizona.

Yet a little glimmer of fear taunted me as well. The idea of looking over the edge of steep cliff while a mule controls my life-or-death fate caused my head to resist … but as usual, my heart won, I rode a mule to the top, and I had a blast doing so. I simply ignored and/or pushed through any fear that came up, maintaining a peaceful inner giggle during the entire ascent.

Return Colca Magic

With only a day to rest after returning to Arequipa, I found myself on another 3:00 a.m. tourist bus, returning to the canyon with just a one-way transportation ticket – again zooming over that 16,000 foot mountain pass, and then eating breakfast in Chivay. But this time, when we stopped at the beginning of the trail, near the town of Cabana Conde, I was ready to go and just took off walking all by myself, leaving the tour groups in the dust behind me.

I could not believe my strength, stability, and stamina. I did not stop for any breaks during the entire descent – and my shoes only started to slide maybe three or four times – but never enough to be dangerous. I finished the 4,000 foot descent to the river in a time of just two hours and ten minutes; and then forty minutes after crossing the bridge I was all checked in to my favorite little room at Posada Gloria, gobbling down a delicious lunch.

After a relaxed afternoon, I drank Huachuma on each of the next two days, and had beautiful ceremonial experiences. The energies were so strong, however, leaving me very tired. On the fourth day, I went hiking instead, venturing all the way up to a town called Tapay. In retrospect, that hike was fun, but it didn’t give me much opportunity to rest.

On the morning of my fifth day, I checked my guidance and decided to make the three-hour hike to “Oasis Sangrilla”, a little town at the base of the exit trail. I again surprised myself with my own strength as I easily completed the hike with enough time to get in a good swim at the hotel’s pool (filled with local warm spring water) before any of the tour groups caught up with me.

I had a decision to make that night (mule or hike), and I decided to give myself the physical challenge of hiking. I didn’t know much about public transportation options at the top of the trail, and didn’t want to be the last one at the top, so I decided to get up at 4:00 a.m. and start hiking as soon as I could. I had a good head start before I could see the flashlights of the tour groups far below me at 5:00 a.m..

Even with my head start, about fifty people passed me before I reached the top – but I DID reach the top – and I did it in three hours and forty-five minutes. I was very proud of myself. Without even stopping for breakfast, I began the half-hour walk into Cabana Conde, where I found a 9:00 a.m. bus that would take me on the six-hour drive back to Arequipa.

I did it! I was exhausted as I returned to my hotel – but extremely proud of myself – and very grateful that I followed my heart guidance. In just ten days I had been down in the canyon twice – once on a three-day tour and once on a six-day solo journey.

And in the process, I also made several new friends. I find that I am more social than I remember ever having been in the past – and I am actually enjoying that newly-healed part of me.

Nazca Playground

I gave my body two days to rest before hopping on a bus for my next adventure – one that began with a ten-hour bus ride from Arequipa to Nazca, home of the famous Nazca Lines.

Nazca seems like years ago – it really does – but when I check the calendar I am shocked to see that I just arrived there exactly a week ago. It was a whirlwind trip filled with five different tours. On my first morning I splurged and paid for a flight (in a 5-passenger Cessna) up over the Nazca lines. I was not sure just what to expect, other than that it would be an adventure. I was able to see the lines below, and I really enjoyed the short flight, but was quite surprised at how hard they are to photograph. I quickly gave up and just decided to look and enjoy the lines with my own two eyes.

That same afternoon, I took another tour to some local aqueducts – a series of twenty fascinating spiral structures dug deep into the ground. At the bottom of each spiral (anywhere from fifteen to thirty feet deep) there is access to a clear stream of water still running as it has for over 2,000 years. These aqueducts were constructed by the ancient Nazca people, and over twenty of them still function as good as new – even with all the earthquakes that disrupt this region on a frequent basis.

That night I attended a presentation about the Nazca Lines at the local planetarium. I found the discussion to be quite enjoyable.

On my second day, I began with a driving tour to various lookout towers and a museum. But it was the afternoon tour that fascinated me. Our tour vehicle was an eight-passenger dune buggy, and our very-skilled driver drove about three-times faster than I would ever consider driving as we skirted out into the windy wilds over dirt and sand roads. Our first stop was a huge complex of ancient Nazca ruins called “Cahuachi”. These ruins were built with adobe and covered by 2,000 years of sand storms. Many of them have been partially restored. I found the site to be quite fascinating.

Then, after a short visit at an ancient unguarded burial ground, we embarked on the adventure part of the tour. I haven’t played like that for a very long time. Our driver zoomed all over some very tall and steep dunes before stopping at the crest of one. He retrieved seven sand boards from the back of the buggy, and soon we were taking turns sand boarding down the steep slopes – first sitting down, then lying down face-first on our bellies, and finally taking a run standing up. It was a magical adventure that did not end until we made the one-hour journey zooming back on wild roads, almost all in the pitch-black of a very-windy, new-moon night.

Beaches Birds Penguins And Sea Lions

While in Nazca, I heard about a beach town called Paracas – one where there was a nearby National Reserve and also an island tour to an island filled with wildlife – even some penguins. Some even go so far as to call this island the Galapagos of Peru.

My heart said “Yes”, so Paracas became my next stop. I was lucky enough to barely get in a boat trip to the “Islas Ballestas” less than a half hour after arriving … and then the next day I did a typical guided tour of the National Reserve. I enjoyed my visit, but my heart kept saying “move on … move on soon”.

A Giggling Adventure

On Monday morning, April 27, I left Paracas on a bus destined for Lima. Prior to leaving, I made an appointment with the U.S. Embassy for Tuesday morning. It seems that after six years of traveling, all of my Passport’s visa pages were full – so full that I would not be able to continue crossing borders without my little trip to the embassy.

Early Tuesday morning, after a quick breakfast at the hotel, I caught a taxi at 7:45 a.m. – arriving at the embassy at around 8:30 a.m..

I was totally unprepared for the giggles that would come next. After being told to wait in line even though I had an appointment, I found out that my cell phone would not be allowed inside the embassy – and there are not any storage services provided.

“What do I do with it then?” I ask the Peruvian security guard regarding my phone.

“That is your problem.” He replies. “But you cannot go inside with it. You could maybe hide it in the bushes or something.”

As I notice the minutes ticking away, I look at my cheap little cell phone and make a rash decision. Hurrying to a row of hedges about 50 feet away – hedges that follow the wall of this huge bunker-like U.S. Embassy – I first look back at the large crowd to see if any of the hundreds of people are watching me. I giggle, knowing it is likely that many of them are doing just that. I then quickly bend down in a thicker area of the hedge, find a spot with a thin cover of leaves, and stash both my cell phone and my voice recorder back in a spot where they are barely visible. Then I place a dead weed at the base of the shrub to mark the spot.

After passing through security with my little purse and a small black canvas bag, the “dropping off my passport” part goes very smoothly. I pay my $82 US to add new pages and they tell me to come back between 2:30 and 3:30 p.m. to pick it up.

“Yippee,” I exclaim to myself when I then return to the hedge. Both my phone and the voice recorder are still there.

Rather than leave and then come back to this area of Lima (It is a long taxi ride from my hotel), I just decide to hang out for six hours. There is a little outdoor mall right across the street. I find a McDonalds that has a cozy waiting area inside with restrooms and even an old two-person fake-leather sofa. As I sit resting on that sofa I get the idea that this would be an ideal place to hide my cell phone and my voice recorder. So, before returning to the embassy at 2:00 p.m., I carefully stash my precious devices down in the crack between the back of the non-moveable cushions and the back of the sofa. It is very deep and very secure – and no one sees me do it.

I am all set … or am I?

I am shocked when I return to the security entrance. They tell me that I cannot take my black canvas bag into the embassy with me.

“But I took it in this morning?” I protest with a giggle.

“You shouldn’t have,” The guard sternly responds, insisting that I cannot go into the embassy with this bag.

With giggling shock on my face, I remove a few valuables from the bag, squeeze them into my tiny purse (that is now bulging at the zippers), and then look around to decide what to do.

I consider just tossing the bag into the hedge, but then I notice a restaurant across the street. A quick conversation with a woman inside solves the issue, and I leave my bag with the valet parking guy. He even gives me a claim ticket.

As I make another attempt at the security gate, this time I get as far as the X-Ray machine.

“You have a flashlight in there, don’t you?” The lady accuses me with a scowl as my bag comes out the other side.

“Yes,” I respond in shocked protest, “It is just a flashlight. It is not a forbidden electronic device.”

She then scolds me again and tells me in Spanish (the whole security team is Peruvian) that I cannot take it inside. I ask her to just throw it away for me but she insists I must take it outside. Soon, I am standing by a five-foot-tall circular planter with a tree growing in it, digging through my little purse to retrieve the flashlight. In a stealth move, I slide my flashlight into the planter in a way that no one could see it, and I then return to security.

Finally, I make it through, the first screening … and then the second … and after a half-hour wait I have my new, very fat passport in hand.

I giggle and giggle as I leave the embassy, and head to the planter to retrieve my flashlight. Then, after crossing the street and paying 10 soles to retrieve my black bag from the valet parking guy, I walk to the McDonalds, hoping that no one is sitting on that sofa.

I giggle even more as I ponder the dilemma. A young man is sitting on that sofa, playing with the internet on his phone. He looks as if he is going to be there for a very long time, so finally I swallow what little pride I have left and ask him if I can get something from the sofa. He moves over, I reach down into the back crack and pull out two devices. We both giggle as I walk away. I DID it … what a giggling adventure it was. I am actually quite proud of myself for handling it all so smoothly, with such a sense of humor.

Moving On – Again

Today is Wednesday, April 29, 2015. This morning, with my newly-fat passport locked away in the hotel safe, I began checking guidance for future plans. Soon, after a ten-block walk to a “tele-ticket outlet” I was back in the hotel, now holding a bus ticket for my next journey. Tomorrow morning I take a ten-hour ride to the northern Peru town of Trujillo.

After a four-hour journey to the historic center of Lima, I am now rapidly typing away on my keyboard, hoping to publish this blog before the evening runs out.

This first month of my travels has been quite adventurous – both tiring and restful at the same time – literally taking me on a time-warp of explorative discovery. Even while just having fun, playing tourist, I continue to be amazed by the synchronous events that unfold – events that continue to teach me and to instill confidence in doing what I am doing.

During the last month, I have continued to write a weekly response to a question posed by my friends (and myself) as a part of a project that we are doing together. In closing out this blog, I would again (as I did in the last one) like to share my responses to several of those mini-writing tasks.

World-Rocking Quotes

The first question/answer I want to share is the following: This one is from the first week of April.

Please share a saying, poem, story or idea that shifted you and rocked your world and explain how and why.

For my answer, I am going to share a personal story that happened to me in one of my Huachuma ceremonies here in Peru. I cannot say for sure without returning to my notes, but I believe it happened in late August, 2014, while I was enjoying the wonder of my magical playground – a sacred little grassy area next to a river, surrounded by small farms, nestled at the foot of towering Mount Pitusiray (a magical mountain nearly 19,000 feet high).

A few hours into my ceremony, as I sat cross-legged on the ground while meditating quietly, a sparkly glimmer caught my eye. Feeling curious, I walked over to see what the glimmer might be. To my surprise, it was just a little cap from a beer bottle. At first, some words on the inner side of the cap caught my eye. The words read “Sigue Intentando,” which in Spanish translates to “Keep Trying”. To me, these words seemed to be a gift of personal reassurance from some magical source above.

Then, feeling guided, I turned the cap over to look at the other side. It was a gold cap with a profile of Machu Picchu stenciled on top. To the average observer, the cap would have just been a piece of trash. But intuitions told me to dig deeper in meditation.

As I pondered the faded picture of Machu Picchu on that bottle cap, intuitions suddenly guided me to memories of many frustrating experiences with tour guides at various sites of ancient ruins. During my last six years of travel I have participated in tours of places like Tulum, Chichen Itza, Teotihuacan, Tikal, Machu Picchu, and many more. While some of the tour guides were better informed than others, there was one common thread with all of them.

Intuitively, in my heart, I knew that what these well-intentioned tour guides were telling me was simply a collection of mostly-made-up stories that they had learned during their tour-guide certification classes. While some of the information might be scientifically accurate as far as some dates and timeframes, etc…, the vast majority of what these guides were sharing was simply mental speculation. The agencies that create the official scripts for such tour guides mostly discount, discredit, and ignore any indigenous traditions that may be passed down by the shamans. The scientific world considers most such stories to be nonsensical and impossible legends.

Suddenly, while in the midst of these ponderings, I burst out in uncontrollable laughter. A flash of intuition had unexpectedly shown me that my own logical mind is nothing more than a pompous tour guide who had been trained in ego-based classrooms – classrooms of so many different types – classrooms ranging from parental teachings all the way to advanced university degrees.

The laughter made no sense to my logical mind.

My heart was the part of me that was laughing. I was overflowing with playful joy and celebration at the sudden realization that I really didn’t know squat, and that the mental part of me that had controlled me for so many decades was finally beginning to lose its grip of power.

I continued to laugh uncontrollably for more than an hour as I was repeatedly given deep insight into how almost everything that I thought I knew was nothing more than memorized information that was given to me by others – information created by left-brained logic – information upon which I had then based my entire life. In the depth of this ceremony, I was shown that heart-based experience is the only source of true knowing.

It became hilariously obvious when I imagined myself pompously walking around repeating the contents of a brain filled with memorized facts – thinking myself to be so intelligent and knowledgeable. The whole experience was profoundly humbling.

Later in that ceremony, I was shown how our belief systems are really like cages of experience. We live in an infinite Universe with unlimited dimensions of possibility. How we experience those possibilities depends on what we believe to be possible. Once we believe something is a certain way, our brain tends to filter out all evidence to the contrary, and our perceptive senses instead simply show us the things that validate our existing beliefs. This is why there are so many conflicting beliefs in religion, politics, and cultures. Once we believe things are a certain way, very few of us go back to question or reevaluate those beliefs.

This whole experience literally blew me away in a very humbling way. I learned that our interpretations and descriptions of truth are in and of themselves, not truth. They are simply our attempt to describe an infinite Universe that cannot be contained within the symbols of words. All attempts at documenting reality simply take the “indescribable” and put a box around it.

As I inadequately attempt to describe my indescribable experience from that Huachuma ceremony, I am reminded of two powerful quotes that have helped to shape my own journey of the last ten years.

The first quote is often attributed to Anaïs Nin, but one internet source says she got the quote from the Talmud. I have seen two versions of the quote. These are:

“We don’t see the world as it is; we see it as we are.”

“We don’t see things as they are; we see them as we are.”

I resonate with the first version of this quote, but they both clearly point to how we really filter reality through our own belief systems – through our own experiences of trauma and conditioning. I can strongly attest to the fact that every time that I undo a belief or some other form of past conditioning, that the world I experience is indeed quite different.

The second quote that pops into mind is one attributed to Albert Einstein. One internet source implies that Einstein never said the words arranged this way, but that he did teach this concept in his writings. The quote is as follows:

“The intuitive mind is a sacred gift and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift.”

This quote has resonated deeply with me for several years. I truly do believe that the rational / logical mind was meant to be a faithful servant, but that we live in a world that has given most of the power to logic and scientific knowledge. It has taken me years of undoing and healing to begin to unravel the rational mind. Finally, my head is lovingly taking its role as an incredibly valuable servant – and finally, my sacred gift, my intuitive heart-mind, is taking its seat as my true source of guidance.

So there you have it. I will be forever grateful that my serious logical mind is finally stepping aside to allow the laughter of a magical heart to lead the way in each and every moment.

Exploring Self-Love

This next question is one that I posed to my friends during the second week of April. Following are the question and my response.

Please describe some of your journey with exploring self-love, and how loving (or not loving) yourself has influenced who you are today.

At the time we went through Journey together as the “Dream Makers”, I really thought I loved myself. In many ways I did; but in retrospect, I clearly see that most of that “self-love” was simply a mental concept, still in its infancy.

Throughout my journey of self-discovery over the last six years, I have repeatedly peeled back layers of self-hatred. Each time another layer would surface during my intense processing, I would find myself feeling quite shocked, because I had no idea how much deep self-loathing emotion continued to hide in my energy field.

In the summer and fall of 2012, I uncovered numerous repeated layers of intense suicidal self-hatred. Those emotions were so strong that I nearly drowned in them. At the time, I was so lost in that emotion that I wanted to project it onto Keith (my “chocolate shaman” teacher). It was all I could do to own that the emotion I was feeling was actually my own repressed self-loathing from my youth – emotion that I had never allowed myself to feel so very long ago – emotion that was now moving through me and out of me. But that emotion needed to be felt as it moved.

This was a full seven years after I had really believed that I already loved myself. In 2012, I felt like the world’s biggest loser. In retrospect, however, I realize that my self-love was increasing all the time – but that the more I raised my level of love, the more the remaining emotional blockages that were in the way had to be jarred loose.

It was not until 2013 that I began to turn the corner with bringing in small amounts of real higher love to fill in all the gaps of deep emotional pain that had been released.

What kept me going through all of these years was the fact that I did indeed have many profound glimpses of divine love – glimpses that gave me the courage to keep diving into the depths of more repressed agony that needed to be freed.

There were glimpses during those years when my heart was wide open and the thought of not feeling that love on a permanent basis seemed laughable. But invariably, within a few days the next layer of emotion would surface and the beautiful glimpse I had been given would fade into the next layer of emotional processing.

Through the struggles, I took great comfort in the words of one of my favorite authors, “Rasha”. In her book “Oneness”, she repeatedly reminded me that each time we raise our vibration, that whatever in our field is not in alignment with that higher frequency needs to come up and be released. I might have given up long ago were it not for her reassurance that such experiences were not “backsliding”, but were instead evidence that I was progressing forward.

It was not until August of 2014, when I began engaging in frequent Huachuma ceremonies, that I started to really connect, via my heart, to a source of pure love that was undeniably real – yet something the mind could never have fathomed.

Even as I continued to release more and more inner blockages of unexpected fear, unworthiness, and self-hatred, I began to tap into a fountain of divine bliss, showing me that I am, and always have been a divine being having a human experience – a divine being that had simply forgotten who it was – a divine being that came here to experience all possible variations in human expression, and as such, there was nothing I have ever done or could do that would tarnish the perfection of my “divine-ness”.

In ways beyond words, I was shown that every being on this planet is an expression of divinity, and that even when we don’t know it, we are simply playing out an experience of innocence and worthiness – no matter how it may look to the judgmental eyes of human ego.

Last August, I began to really understand what self-love is.

For me, self-love is definitely not something that I do. It is not a mental concept that can be understood logically. It is not repeating a series of words or affirmations in the mirror. Yes, all of these things helped me to get to a place of surrender and trust where I sort of believed I was worthy, but no technique could take me beyond the “almost-there” or “almost-worthy” stages where I had been stuck for years.

In the past, I had been obsessed with trying to achieve self-love via my physical actions of undoing (conditioning, emotional blocks, etc), and in retrospect I clearly see that all of that undoing was critically important in my journey. But after years of deep work, I finally reached a point of giving up and realizing that the only way to proceed was to stop trying to achieve worthiness and to instead begin to trust a heart connection that is much bigger than I could ever imagine.

I had to stop trying to earn divine worthiness. I had to stop trying to find more things to heal. And I had to accept and believe that I already am and always have been fully worthy and loveable.

But in my case, I also know that I could never have accepted and believed in my worthiness had I not first done all those years of inner work.

In this last magical year of my life, I have had repeated frequent experiences of feeling that divine love – feeling it to the core in ways that the mind could not ever adequately describe. Through it all, the emotional cleansing continued, often quite intensely; but rather than me doing work to dig up more blockages, I simply responded to the blockages that came up naturally, doing so with more love.

Rather than being an act of “doing”, my journey this year has been more of an act of “surrendering and trusting”.

I cannot really describe where I am in this process of embracing who I really am. I understand it to be a lifelong process of growth and expansion. I understand it to be a magical journey of increasingly embracing the divinity that animates all life – the divinity that gives breath to all of us.

But I can say that my journey of embracing self-love has filled me with new zest for life, new joy for being alive, new excitement to not only love myself but to love everyone and everything as my self.

I wish words could convey the love that fills my heart. It is a love that continues to deepen and grow. My own experience shows me profoundly that the more I connect with this deep source of self-love – with my own personal connection to divinity – the more I am able to see the same in others.

Just two months ago, on February 14, 2015, I sat down at my computer on Valentines Day. As I pondered the meaning of love on that traditional day of romantic love, a few paragraphs just flowed and almost typed themselves via my keyboard as if they were coming from a Higher Source. I want to close my writing today by quoting those words.

“As I ponder the true meaning of love on this beautiful Valentines Day, I feel inspired to share a few of the words flowing through me ….

Until we love our self, it is impossible to truly love another … because whatever we don’t love about our self will surely show up in our projections onto that other.

… and true self love has nothing to do with the worldly perceptions of narcissism or conceit … it has to do with peeling back all layers of unworthiness until we can finally embrace the divinity that radiates from within our own heart. Only then can we recognize that same divinity in every heart that seems to be “out there” and “other”.

On this beautiful day, in the middle of February, so often called Valentine’s Day, may we all find that true divine connection within, and radiate that pure love to everyone and everything around us …”

In the last year, my level of self-love has grown tremendously, and my experience with the world has changed dramatically. I cannot wait to see how future growth and new levels of increasing self-love continue to expand my Universe.

What Is My Dream

Finally, this is the third question/answer I wish to share. I wrote this near the end of the third week of April. I want to clarify that the “Journey” referred to in this writing is a healing program that my friends and I participated in.

What is my dream? … and … How do I see my dream affecting the world?

The answer to this question is easy, but expressing it in writing is a little more tricky. For as long as I can remember, I have desperately wanted to figure out how to heal my life, to “fit in socially”, and “to be normal”.

 My experiences in Journey helped me to begin that deep, ongoing healing process … but there was one experience in particular that magically inspired me. In my second time going through “Journey Level I” as a participant, Paul took our group through the process of writing a personal mission statement. I took the assignment seriously, and I began to explore exactly what my future life is all about. I was quite unsure of myself at the time, and was still so unhealed that I felt extremely self-conscious about even sharing what I had written.

A week or two later, I believe it was in late June 2004, I embarked on a mini adventure, hiking up to “Donut Falls” (In one of the canyons near Salt Lake) with a passionate purpose blossoming in my heart. I was on a mission to find deep inspiration and to rewrite my awkward mission statement.

In deep pondering, I sat for hours under a tree about fifty feet from the thundering sound of splashing water, listening to silent inner guidance that seemed to be channeling the words for me. Those words didn’t come smoothly, but it was clear to me as I scribbled and reworked the sentences that the energy behind the words was coming from a Higher Source quite beyond my logical and mental capacity.

As I later walked back down toward my car, I walked very slowly, memorizing the words as I casually strolled. I stopped often as tears gushed down my cheeks, over and over again. By the time I got to my car I had memorized this profound guidance.

In a later “Journey Level II”, after having done a great deal of additional healing, I was guided to change the words “Special Edition Woman” to “Divine Daughter of God”. Here are the words, with that later change.

“I am a beautiful and courageous Divine Daughter of God, overflowing with unconditional love and acceptance of others.

I will compose and perform the special music I hear in my own heart, creating a safe and loving environment where others feel inspired and empowered to discover, and to perform, their own beautiful music.

Together, we can, and we will, create symphonies.”

Of course, when I talk about the “special music I hear in my own heart”, I am talking about divine guidance that flows through my heart, not literally music in a traditional sense.

I knew when I put those words on paper that my purpose, my dream, was not to put down a list of specific tasks that I would perform in my life. Instead, it was to connect to my heart and to my guidance in such a magical way that I could be open and flexible to ongoing guidance – to following a path that would evolve and change beyond my wildest dreams.

It was later that year, around September 2004, when I went through my first “Journey Level II”, where I received strong inner guidance that part of my future also included writing about my life in a way that would profoundly help to inspire others to find the courage to heal.

So there you have it. My dream is to heal my life, to connect to my Higher Source, and to become a follower of my own Higher Self, living my life in such a way that I can help to inspire and empower others to do the same. As I have traveled for the last six years, with this mission as my passionate purpose, I have been learning to do just that – and the passion to write has simply grown stronger.

I really do not know where my life is taking me, other than an inner knowing that tells me it will be magical and profound. I know that my own personal healing has given me an inner license that qualifies me to help and inspire others in walking the path of their own unique healing journeys. I know that my writing skills have been deeply enhanced by a Higher Flow as I develop my gifts via writing in my blog. And I know that these gifts will eventually, perhaps very soon, result in some type of book that will help to inspire and empower those who are guided to read my words.

The only thing I know for sure is that I am open to present-moment guidance. I am not attached in any way to how my dream unfolds. I trust from deep within my heart that it WILL unfold in perfect order, and in perfect timing. My only job is to trust and surrender while opening my heart in my own personal journey.

As far as affecting the world, I believe I already am doing that, in a “butterfly effect” type of way, paying it forward as I go, loving and supporting those that cross my path, and “walking the talk” that I am radiating from my heart.

I profoundly believe that as we heal our own life, that we literally do change the world that we experience – in so many different ways of dimensional experience. In fact, I believe that as we heal, we actually shift into different higher-vibrational dimensions that reflect the level of heart-opening that we resonate with.

I don’t know if this is a real quote, but I have seen it on Facebook many times, and these words resonate deeply with my heart. The quote is attributed to “Lao Tzu” and goes as follows:

“If you want to awaken all of humanity, then awaken all of yourself; if you want to eliminate the suffering in the world, then eliminate all that is dark and negative in yourself. Truly, the greatest gift you have to give is that of your own self-transformation.”

So, these are the passions that fuel my own unique and individual journey. I am here to awaken all of myself, and to radiate the light of my own gift of self-transformation in whatever way my heart guides me in any given moment.

Looking Ahead

Wow, it has been quite the magical ride during my time in Peru. I still don’t know what the future holds. I do know that I have bus tickets to leave for Trujillo in the morning, and my current feelings tell me I will probably only be there for a couple of nights before again moving further north

For many months, the town of Mancora has been calling to me. This is a popular little beach town on the northern coast of Peru, just below the Ecuador border. I definitely do know that after Trujillo, I will be headed in the direction of Mancora. That feels pretty certain.

But how long will I stay there? I certainly do not know that at all. It could be anywhere from a few days all the way up to several months. My Peruvian visa does not expire until mid-August, so that is not a concern.

When I get there, I will simply begin to live, day to day. If I have a comfy place to write, with internet, I might choose to spend some time there while catching up on writing about this last year. If not – of if my heart says “move on”, I will do just that, continuing to follow a flow that seems to be pulling me toward the north.

It will be fun and exciting to find out.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

Emerging From Retreat

March 16th, 2015

Emerging From Retreat

As you might have gathered from my sudden resumption of posting 951 photos to my blog this week, I am feeling strongly inspired that it is time for me to begin a new phase of my life.

Remarkably, this sudden burst of energy and passion just came out of nowhere in the days surrounding March 10, 2015 – my sixtieth birthday – the beginning of a new decade in my life. I am indeed starting a new journey in so many ways.

I have not written in my blog since June 30, 2014, and the task of trying to catch up seems daunting – even impossible. It has been an amazing eight and a half months, filled with profound emotional healing, magical heart openings, and unbelievable growth and change. It has all happened so rapidly, yet it feels as if I have been hibernating in retreat mode for decades. There is so much that I would love to share, but I cannot even remember most of it without digging very deeply into the recesses of my head. Luckily, I recorded it all, either typing in my notes, or speaking into my voice recorder. And many of the voice recordings were made during the depths of profound processing.

I totally switched to my voice recorder after breaking my arm on August 29, 2014. After that event, typing became an exhausting near-impossibility. Believe it or not, breaking my arm was a profound catalyst in my journey, one for which I am deeply grateful. For sure, I will be writing about that experience in detail at a later time.

There is no way that I could ever do justice to what I experienced in the last eight months without writing several books – and I think that is a real possibility in the foreseeable future. But I honestly do not know the future any more. The only thing that I think I know is that I will be leaving Calca in the next few weeks, following strong guidance to once again begin moving on – but exactly when and to where I simply do not know. I am in a state of profound peace with not knowing.

Inspired Questions

At the first of March, my dear friend Lori received a flash of inspiration – one that she quickly shared with me, and two other friends, Jeanette and Rose. At first I internally resisted, feeling a tired thought that her idea might just be more busy work for me to drudge through.

But as I pondered deeper, the idea began to resonate with magic.

Lori’s idea was that my small group of friends would take turns asking a question, with one question per week. The four of us would each answer the question, and then Lori would compile the answers into what might eventually turn into a book of wisdom that could be passed on to our children.

It seems that the “Synchronicity Gods” are all lining up with perfect timing. They have been doing that a lot lately. I have even grown to expect it. As magic would have it, the first question was sent out last week on Monday, March 9, 2015, the day before my sixtieth birthday.

Feeling deeply guided, I wrote my response on the morning of my birthday, and as I wrote, the passion seemed to literally flow from my heart right through my fingertips. It was as if I were not the one doing the writing. I was simply transcribing what easily flowed through me. After a long period of not writing anything, I was blown away by how easily the words came, and how deeply my inner passions were reawakened.

The passion has been building all week – the passion of writing that first question/response, the passion of posting 951 photos, and now, this morning, the passion of writing another question/ response to my friends.

This morning, as I sat here pondering the impossible nature of trying to catch up on my blog, the inspiration hit me.

“Don’t even try to do that right now,” the words flowed through me. “Just be present and start out by sharing on your blog exactly what you are already writing. Then, over time, you can share little snippets of your most magical experiences of the last eight months, without having to try to cover it all.”

So, in the writing of today, I am going to begin by sharing several things that I have written over the last month.

True Love

The first thing that I want to share is the words of a Facebook post that I shared as my status on Valentine’s Day, February 14, 2015. I was in ceremony that day, overflowing with divine love while watching all of the expressions of love being shared among friends. Suddenly these words just flowed through my fingertips. I did not even think about them until I went back to read them later.

“As I ponder the true meaning of love on this beautiful Valentine’s Day, I feel inspired to share a few of the words flowing through me ….

Until we love our self, it is impossible to truly love another … because whatever we don’t love about our self will surely show up in our projections onto that other…

… and true self love has nothing to do with the worldly perceptions of narcissism or conceit … it has to do with peeling back all layers of unworthiness until we can finally embrace the divinity that radiates from within our own heart. Only then can we recognize that same divinity in every heart that seems to be “out there” and “other”.

On this beautiful day, in the middle of February, so often called Valentine’s Day, may we all find that true divine connection within, and radiate that pure love to everyone and everything around us …”

My ceremonies of the last eight months have finally helped me learn to truly love myself. Gratitude overflows from my heart as I ponder how my journey has repeatedly forced me to face yet-another way in which I have secretly harbored so much denied self-hatred – hatred for hidden parts of myself that I did not even know were still cowering in the dark. I will likely be sharing many of these experiences in writings to come.

With each layer of my own precious heart opening, I have been blown away by how my capacity to love others has been magically enhanced. I suspect that I still have much to learn with regards to this subject. It seems to be an ongoing journey of magical self-discovery.

Blissful Beingness

On the morning of my sixtieth birthday, March 10, 2015, I sat in front of my computer and regained my passion to write. The passion burst out of me as I responded to the first question being posed to my small group of friends. That question and my answer to it are:

What is one thing you do that fills your heart with joy?

The answer is easy, but explaining it is the hard part, because it is actually not something I can “DO” at all.

I never could adequately explain it with words, but in June of 2004, just days before my second “Journey Seminars” healing experience as a participant rather than as a staffer, I found myself near my little red jeep, high atop a mountain in northern Utah, begging for something “out there” to help me heal … to help me find myself. Somehow, in that mystical wilderness setting I was given a gift of grace – a glimpse so powerful that I made a commitment to myself that if at all possible, I would return to the mountains on a weekly basis in an attempt to somehow repeat that magical and inexplicable connection.

It soon became obvious that the connection I was seeking was not one I could create on my own; it was just something that had happened all by itself. I clearly understood that my being in the mountains provided a setting of willingness, trust, and surrender where that “happening” was much more likely to occur, but I realized that there was nothing I could actually “DO” that would make it happen. I found that the connection happened more frequently when I made myself available to experience it, but over five years of consistent “mountain time”, I could NEVER predictably make it happen by my own efforts alone.

So just what is that connection? It is a powerful, magical sense of being connected to something much bigger than the “little me”. It is a sense of absolute loving peace and joyful knowing that nothing in the world really matters, and that everything is perfect exactly as it is – no matter how it may appear to worldly eyes.

I found that each such magical experience fueled me onward, giving me courage to keep going for a short period of time. And I knew that if I didn’t nurture and replenish that connection, it would fade. And when it did sometimes fade, I was left feeling lost and alone once again.

I remember one experience in particular. It was Mother’s Day, perhaps 2006 or 2007. I had spent the day in a magical playground atop Squaw Peak, above Utah Valley. The mystical meadow around me was filled with new growth, awakening life, wild turkeys, budding flowers, and abundant flowing springs. On that blissful day, I was gifted with such a magical glimpse of “who I am”, that I just had to share it with someone. I remember pulling off the road on my way down the mountain. The sun was going down as I finally noticed that I had cellphone service. I spent the next few hours immersed in magical conversation with Lori, so excited and overwhelmed by the unbelievable love that flowed through my heart.

It was that blissful connection to “something bigger than me” that eventually guided me on my current six-year journey of self-discovery, beginning in Mexico, passing through Belize and Guatemala, and now continuing in Peru. The more I heal – the more I remove the deep wounds that have caused me to keep my heart locked away from public view – the more easily that connection now flows. I still find that I cannot make it happen by any specific act of “doing”. There is neither recipe nor formula that can describe how to achieve the blissful state of “Being-ness”.

But what I can say with absolute certainty is that “This state of being-ness is the most magical state of joy that I could ever imagine.” For me, this joyful state is the source of the passion that has fueled my continuing healing journey – that has fueled my passion to write and to share my journey with others. And I often find that the very act of expressing my passion, either in writing or through verbal exchange, is exactly what returns me to that blissful joy of being-ness.

I wish there was something I could “DO” that would take me directly to this state of joy, but I have found that it is exactly the opposite. It is actually the “undoing” that makes it easier. It is the “undoing” of all the walls, barricades, and prison bars that have kept my heart locked up in a mental prison of shame, self-doubt, self-loathing, self-hating … and the list could go on for a very long time.

With each layer of emotional release – release that now happens as part of a magical higher flow – the joy becomes more frequent and easier to maintain. I am so profoundly grateful for a magical journey that continues to teach me that this joy is my divine birthright – the divine birthright of every one of us.

Passing Of An Old Friend

The other event that fueled my passion happened the next day when my old Dell laptop computer finally gave up the ghost. As I began to copy photos from my camera to my new little laptop – one that I had purchased at the end of November, but never fully utilized – I began to feel a passionate inner drive telling me it is finally time to begin a new phase of writing.

I already posted the following eulogy in my final photo post yesterday, but I want to repost it here, in my written blog. I have been giggling all week about writing this tribute to little “Dell”, but when I actually wrote it yesterday, my heart was alive with passion and loving giggles.

Following is the text of this post:

It has been expected for a long time. My friend Dell has been sniffling with mysterious viruses for a few years now … but all the therapeutic scans for viruses and malware could neither detect nor correct what was inevitable. He was growing very old and his days in my service were numbered. He first joined my side as I prepared to return to school back in 2005, and has tirelessly served me without fail … never complaining and always doing his best to be there for me.

Just over a year ago, while I was in Iquitos, Dell’s visual skills began to fritz out, but then luckily began to function again. Later, in April 2014, after being hibernated and wrapped in plastic for three months, the jungle humidity overwhelmed my faithful little companion and his vision again began to flake out. But what really made him struggle was the water that I spilled on him during a boat ride. He caught a very bad cold, and barely survived; but he lovingly forgave me without judgment. The little guy’s visual acuity never fully recovered, but he fought valiantly and continued to serve with trust and courage.

Somewhere over the majestic Andes mountains, in May, as we flew from Iquitos to Lima and then to Cusco, my little companion suffered a bout with altitude sickness, and his keyboard began to suffer nerve problems such that the signals for various critical keyboard connections would no longer fire correctly. Then, as old age often does, he began to make funny noises when his USB connections were wiggled. Something was just not quite right with him, but still, he continued to serve with dedication.

But it was not until November, 2014, while Jeanette and I were at Lake Titicaca, that his core systems began to require hospice and intensive care. One morning, at our hotel room in Copacabana, Bolivia, Dell went almost completely blind, and was soon hooked up to life support, requiring all kinds of external wires – external monitors and external input devices – just to maintain his ability to communicate. But still, he just kept serving.

Meanwhile, still weak and almost blind, Dell helped to give birth to his adopted son, Lenovo, faithfully donating all of his memory and stored knowledge to his adopted prodigy. Dell did not even care that Lenovo came from a different genetic background. He freely shared everything he had, passing on his wisdom with pure unconditional love.

Dell served me well, even while in intensive hospice care, right up until the very end. As a final act of uncomplaining service, he entertained my dear friend Sufi and I with one final movie on the evening of my sixtieth birthday … just last Tuesday … the magical day in which I completed six amazing decades on this planet.

Early Wednesday morning, March 11, 2015, I went out to the kitchen to check on my trusty companion. Old age was just too much for him. When I gently caressed his power button, all he could do was to emit a high pitched warbling screeching sound.

My faithful friend is no longer able to communicate in any way. As an act of mercy, I have decided to let him rest, no longer requiring him to serve me in any way.

Dell is survived by his magical adopted son, Lenovo … and is also survived by the thousands of pages of blog entries that he diligently helped me to create. He earned a forever-place in my heart, and will never be forgotten.

In his “Last Will and Testament”, Dell asked that his body be donated to a local service technician in Cusco. He hopes that his parts might still somehow serve someone in need.

Viewings for his surviving friends will be scheduled, by appointment, during the next week. Dell will be available for remote viewings as well, for those who know how to astral project (or use Skype).

Watch Out World

Just this morning, as I responded to a new question, one that I myself posed to my group of magical friends, I felt the passion again flowing. When I finally clicked the “send” button on my email, the guidance was strong – guidance telling me that this belongs in my blog as well. Following is that question and response:

Please share a few of the ways that our deep bond of friendship has inspired and influenced your life path.

As I begin, I feel inspired to first share the beautiful words of this song – the song I am still listening to on repeat mode as I write these words:

Unconditionally
Written and sung by Katy Perry

Oh no, did I get too close?
Oh, did I almost see what’s really on the inside?
All your insecurities
All the dirty laundry
Never made me blink one time

[Chorus:]
Unconditional, unconditionally
I will love you unconditionally
There is no fear now
Let go and just be free
I will love you unconditionally

Come just as you are to me
Don’t need apologies
Know that you are worthy
I’ll take your bad days with your good
Walk through the storm I would
I do it all because I love you, I love you

[Chorus repeated]

So open up your heart and just let it begin
Open up your heart and just let it begin
Open up your heart and just let it begin
Open up your heart

Acceptance is the key to be
To be truly free
Will you do the same for me?

[Chorus repeated (with slight additions)]

Perhaps you might remember some of the shame-filled details that I tried to hide when we first met each other. At the time I had already found the beginnings of a spiritual journey, but I really didn’t understand it very well. I experienced a profound calling from within – a calling to love others unconditionally … to fully heal … and to finally find that illusive “something that I am missing in my life”.

But in those early years of our friendship, I continued to secretly carry deep dysfunctional patterns of hidden self-loathing, self-deprecating shame for past social struggles, and mountains of self-doubt. I desperately wanted to fit in and to be social, but my heart was extremely guarded, and I did not let very many people inside the thick hidden walls of that sanctuary. In fact, I now understand that I did not even let myself in – at least not very far.

Wow, tears are suddenly streaming down my cheeks as I continue writing …

On one level, I seemed to have it all together. My external life was abundant and increasingly improving and I felt so much genuine love. But on another level I felt like a total fraud, a social loser, and deep inside were hidden fears that I would never fit in or be loved for who I really am.

Somehow, with our deep bond from “The Dream Makers”, I allowed many of those walls to crumble – allowing you, my new friends to get closer, to see some of what was really inside, and to see the outer edges of my insecurities and dirty laundry – and I did feel loved, but I continued to sabotage myself as I desperately sought to heal my social fears.

Our friendship was amazing – it was definitely unconditional – overflowing with “come as you are and no need for apologies” – and while I still subconsciously didn’t fully see myself as worthy, we all treated each other with unconditional worthiness. I had never felt so genuinely loved.

That unconditionally accepting and loving bond between us was a profoundly inspiring influence in giving me the courage to keep going forward – to continue my healing – to continue trusting and following the inner guidance that eventually uprooted my whole life as I knew it – to launch myself into the unknown, facing my fears, and finally healing the deep core issues that had succeeded in sabotaging me for more than five and a half decades.

It has only been in the last few years that I realized the core of my sabotage was my own continued lack of self-love. It has been an amazing journey of self-discovery, inspired by memories of that magical loving sendoff that you all gave me on the evening of June 11, 2009 – and inspired by the knowing that my dear friends love me unconditionally.

Just last week, on the day before my sixtieth birthday, I woke up in a very confusing mood. I was feeling bitchy and irritated by literally everything around me. I went to Cusco to run errands and was overwhelmed by the agitating energy everywhere I went. In one particularly profound moment, I was walking up a street to the San Pedro Market, The sidewalk was quite wide and I was nestled up against the building on my right, taking up very little space as I climbed a mild sloping hill. A man and woman were walking down the street toward me and the man was hogging the entire middle of the sidewalk.

The “old me” would have moved to the side, squeezing my back tightly against the wall to make sure I did not collide with the man who seemed to totally ignore my existence.

“Hold your ground … keep your shoulders square … and just keep walking with confidence,” my inner bitch screamed out in silence.

I listened to my inner bitch and just kept walking. Suddenly the man slammed his left shoulder into mine. It was a very strong jolt, but I did not flinch. I giggled with rebellion as I walked another ten steps and then I turned around for a glance. The man below was looking at me as if I were the devil incarnate. I just turned around with a giggle and continued my bitchy walk up the street.

Seconds later, another flash of profound guidance flowed into my heart.

“Love all of yourself, Brenda,” the intuition whispered loudly. “This is an opportunity to fully love and heal this part of you … your inner bitch … the confusing part of you that sometimes feels so irritated.”

It was a half hour later when the puzzle pieces began coming together. I was sitting in a KFC (Kentucky Fried Chicken), eating lunch by the main “Plaza De Armas” in Cusco. This fast food restaurant always plays music videos in the eating area. Suddenly, my guidance told me to stop and to pay attention to the words of the song that was playing.

It was this song “Unconditionally” by Katy Perry. As I listened to the words, I began to sob and sob, doing so as silently as possible, with my back turned to the center of the room. I heard the magical words of this song telling me to love MYSELF unconditionally … to love ALL parts of myself without exception.

It was later that afternoon, back in my bedroom in Calca, that I processed through the deep emotions. Clarity came so strongly. For my entire life, I have pretended to be invisible to others, stepping out of their way to avoid conflict, and not shining the light of my truth in order to not ruffle the feathers of those who might disagree.

This “inner bitch” that came out to play earlier was the repressed part of me that had remained caged up and invisible, and she was quite bitchy about me not letting her out to shine her light. The part of me that I had hated and hidden so much was my own magic just desperately wanting to be loved by me – wanting to be allowed to shine her brilliant light without my silly fears holding her back.

And it is only today, as I write this long story, that I realize with deep gratitude that you, my dear friends, were among the first angels to truly love me without conditions. We have walked through so many storms together, and shared so many magical times. Through it all we have shown each other who we really are, even when we could not see it in ourselves. I am so grateful for how we have each held space for each other, making it possible for us to open our hearts, wider and wider, as we each continue to grow in our own unique and magical ways.

And finally, after all these years, I am fully learning to love all parts of myself in the same way. It is about time.

All I can say is “Watch out world … Brenda is coming out of her self-imposed shell … and her light is shining more brightly than ever before”.

The Real Me

Wow, it seems that I am hitting the ground running. I have no idea where I will be in three weeks’ time, let alone six months from now. But I am passionately excited to enter this next decade of my life and to uninhibitedly shine my light in whatever way my heart guides me – not in a confrontational way, but in a way that fully expresses the new levels of love flowing from within my own heart, without fear of what anyone else might think.

I knew when I began this journey of self-discovery, almost six years ago, that I would fail if something inside of me did not change – yet I had no idea of just what that something was. All I knew was that my path was fueled by a genuine loving desire to heal and serve, but for whatever reason I continued to sabotage myself, never allowing myself to complete my goal, always finding an excuse to “not be enough”.

Finally, after the last eight months of deep healing and heart-opening experiences, I truly know that my continued self-sabotage was based on my own stealth self-hatred – repressed feelings of unworthiness that continued to tell me “not yet … you’re still not ready … you are still going to fail … blah blah blah”.

Even though I am emerging from what has only been an eight-month retreat, I feel as if I have actually been in a self-imposed isolation for as far back as memory can take me – and that at last I am actually emerging from a tiny jail cell – a very limiting mental prison. The bars of that prison were very real, but at the same time were all in my head. I cannot wait for the remaining mental bars to come tumbling down.

It feels so freeing to know that those inner voices were all lies – lies designed to push and coax me into discovering who I really am – and I can finally say that I love the real me. I cannot wait to embrace the journey that awaits me.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

Photos – Return To Titicaca And Shifting Seasons

March 15th, 2015

In early February 2015, I began to receive strong intuitive guidance that it will soon be time for me to leave Calca and to begin writing again — with strong feelings that the writing will soon be in the form of the book that is passionately wanting to be born from within me.

But guidance also said that I needed to make one more border run to Bolivia, and stay just a little longer. This photo post contains 131 photos beginning with that trip for new visa stamps on my passport and ending with the passing of an old friend.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

Bolivia Or Bust

I got up early in the morning on February 17, 2015, walked through the darkness down into town, and caught a 6:00 a.m. minivan from Calca to Cusco, after which I caught a taxi to the bus station where I quickly purchased a bus ticket. At shortly after 8:30 a.m I boarded my luxury bus (Transzella) to Puno for the seven-hour journey in plush leather recliner seats ($14 US). After a short sleep at a hostel in Puno, Peru I took another early morning bus from Puno to Copacabana, Bolivia, effortlessly crossing the Bolivian border.

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This is the bus I was riding on for the journey across the border from Puno to Copacabana.

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This is taken at the Peru/Bolivia border.

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I was one of the first from my bus to make it through customs on both sides of the border, and sat here for more than an hour waiting for the rest of the passengers to finish.

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This is a photo taken from the same spot as the previous one, looking out over Lake Titicaca.

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I arrived in Copacabana at shortly before noon, fully expecting to simply spend the night in town and to catch another bus right back to Puno in the morning.

But as I walked down the cobblestone street in Copacabana, an intuitive flash of inspiration raced through my heart.

“I have never spent the night on the Island of the Sun”, I thought to myself. “Why don’t I check out the possibilities?”

After a quick visit to a tourist agency, I suddenly found myself reserving a small hostel room and purchasing a one-way ticket for the Island of the Sun. I would be on a boat that left at around 1:00 p.m., giving me just enough time for a very quick lunch.

I love flashes of inspiration …

The above photo is at my hostel on the Island of the Sun. I spent a total of about $18 US for the boat ride and for one night at the hostel.

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This is the view from my bedroom window in the hostel. Those are the Cordillero mountains beyond the Island of the Moon way off in the distance.

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My hostel from a different perspective. My room is upstairs, just beyond that circular balcony. The low building on the left is a tiny restaurant run by the woman who operates the hostel.

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A view of the hostel from down below. there are about five or six rooms upstairs.

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The name of the hostel was “INKA Pacha”. It sits very high up on the Island of the Sun, in the southern-end village of Yumani.

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Inside my room, a bed by the window.

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There were actually three beds in the room. I slept on the near one, choosing it because it was softer.

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Looking through the bedroom window.

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One reason I did not intend to even go to the Island of the Sun on this trip is that we are right in the middle of rainy season, and I expected it to be cloudy, rainy, and cold. Instead, it is absolutely gorgeous weather.

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Zooming in on the Island of the Moon as seen from my room.

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Looking down toward some homes below.

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Just visually exploring some roof tops.

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A view of a church below.

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I loved my vantage point right from my room.

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After settling in, I took a hike and spent the afternoon meditating on the side of the hill that has a lookout point on top. I spent a few hours by the shady side of this water tank, enjoying the view across this part of the lake.

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The Cordilleros are beautiful today.

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The sun will set soon in the west.

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The little girl in the pink hat is named Monica. While I was sitting near the water tank, she came over with some balloons and began talking to me. She was so friendly that I giggled inside. She kept blowing up more and more balloons as she talked to me, and soon had tied five of them together into a makeshift doll shape with one balloon being the head, two being the arms, and two being the legs.

Then she gave me the doll and told me that she made it for me.

“My mother and father are home drinking,” She told me matter-of-factly.

“I’m sorry,” I responded. “That is not very fun, is it?”

She soon changed the subject and told me she had some necklaces for sale. I fell in love with her and ended up buying two whistle necklaces. I could have gotten them cheaper elsewhere, and really didn’t want them, but she won my heart.

Soon she excused herself and said goodbye. Later, right before sundown, I saw her and her sister untying the mules that were grazing around the area. I can only assume that the mules belong to the family, and that it is the young girls’ job to bring them home at night.

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Standing in the same spot, but facing to the south, back toward the top of the village of Yumani. Copacabana is in the far distance.

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The sun is setting behind this cloud, but still has a while before it disappears.

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The sunset cast a special glow on the Cordilleros. I just checked Wikipedia to try to find details on this range. It says that the peaks in Bolivia range between 18,000 and 21,000 feet in altitude. I’m guessing that these are some of the 21,000 foot peaks.

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The sun continuing to get lower (behind the cloud).

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Starting to peek out below the cloud.

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The clouds have a lot of character.

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Almost there. As I took these photos, I noticed the red and green orbs in the photo and kept taking more photos to see if they moved or changed.

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They continually shifted around, with slightly different positions on the viewfinder and moving with relation to each other.

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Another purple one appears in the middle here.

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Having a lot of fun just watching the orbs as I take the photos. I kept cleaning my lens with a cleaning cloth, just trying to make sure that this was not just dust particles reflecting in the sun.

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The orbs keep slightly changing. It could just be a combination of optics, zoom, and position of the sun in the lens … but I am having fun anyway.

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Soon, I look to the south and love the colorful reflections on those clouds. The thumbnail images do not do justice to the scenery.

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Facing back toward the sun.

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I love the contrast of the clouds.

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Then I noticed that the colors were reflecting on the clouds to the east, above the Cordilleros.

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By now, I was already walking back to my hostel, but kept stopping to take more photos because it was so beautiful and mesmerizing.

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Looking more to the south.

This is the last photo that I took before returning to my hostel.

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Early the next morning, on February 19, 2015, at just before 6:00 a.m., I looked out my window and giggled as I realized that I was watching a sunrise. I watched the sun go down on one side of the island last night, and here it is rising on the other side this morning.

It wasn’t until later that I noticed those conical rings in the left side of the photo. The thumbnail image is weak. If you click to enlarge the photo, there is a spiral of at least five circles going around that tree on the left … interesting.

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These are the two necklaces that I bought from Monica yesterday afternoon.

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I had a decision to make that morning. I really wanted to get started back to Puno, but I had made a heartfelt commitment to myself last night that if today was another beautiful day that I would stay another day.

It was gorgeous this morning, and I decided to compromise. I will stay the day, and then take a boat back to Copacabana at 3:00 p.m. this afternoon.

I decided to take a hike. I began walking north on the trail that leads to the north end. As I passed through a check point, I noticed on the map they gave me that a side trail headed off down to the village of Challa. I had never been there, so I decided to take the trail.

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This is the map they gave me. I was walking from Yumani (left end) and just exploring. I decided to take that little blue trail that splits off to the right — the one that goes back down toward the shoreline. I had already walked from the far north end to Yumani on that middle trail in June.

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I passed this little stream and can only imagine that it must be fed by a spring higher up on the hillside.

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The lower part of the village of Challa.

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A woman herding a bunch of sheep just up the trail.

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A pig by the side of the trail.

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Some sheep just below the trail.

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Zooming in on the sheep.

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Other sheep in a little rock pen.

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Another view of the little enclosure where the sheep are kept.

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An interesting building along the trail.

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A little walled-off collection of five homes. I can only assume than many members of an extended family live here together.

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Walking up a little hill toward the main part of the village of Challa (pronounced CHAY-yuh).

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Walking up rock steps in the main village.

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Looking over at the side of the hill, enjoying the beautiful scenery surrounding the village.

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Continuing to walk up the steep steps.

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Finally at the crest of the hill, in the middle of Challa. This gorgeous bay runs from Challa (near side) all the way to Challapampa (far side). Jeanette and I spent time on the beach at Challapampa in November.

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Zooming in on Challapampa. The beach we visited was on the other side of that little town.

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I didn’t know it, but Challa has its own little beach down below.

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A better view of the beach. I spent a short time meditating here, but the clock said I needed to keep going. Eventually, I climbed up that mountain in the distance and hiked without a trail all the way back to the top of the island.

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Another gorgeous view of the beach below, this time without a zoom.

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A local woman staring at a field.

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On the beach. It was cold and not very soft sand.

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I sat for a while right here. This flock of sheep came toward me and walked right by me on both sides.

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It looks like the farmers bring their animals down here for a drink as they move them from one place to another.

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It looks really inviting, but the water is cold and the beach is very rocky.

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I love this little dock.

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I was quite surprised to see a little hostel here.

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Eventually, I decided to walk home a different way. I was determined to find a trail back to the top of the mountain (the middle of the island). I am now on top of the hill at the other end of the beach. There are no trails, but I am going to climb anyway.

In this photo I am looking back toward the northern edge of the village of Challa, and the beautiful beach that I just crossed over.

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Finally, after a long and difficult zig-zagging climb with no trail, I ended up at the top of the island, joining up with the main north-south trail at around its half-way point. In this photo I am looking south, which is the direction I intend to walk.

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Looking back down toward Challa from way up on top. It is close to 13,000 feet above sea level where I now stand.

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Beautiful flowers and fields atop the island.

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Continuing south. You can see part of the trail on the mountain in the left distance.

Eventually, I reach the village of Yumani at around 2:30 p.m., just in time to pick up my suitcase and catch a 3:00 p.m. boat back to Copacabana.

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To my delight, when I arrive in Copacabana just before 5:00 p.m., I walk into one of my favorite tourist agencies and learn that there is a direct-to-Cusco bus leaving at 6:00 p.m., and that I can get space on it. The upstairs seats are rows or four across, so I opt to get a sleeper-seat downstairs in a plush leather recliner (they are larger and only three seats in a row). I wont be able to see anything at night anyway.

After a quick dinner, I am on the bus to Puno at 6:00 p.m., with our first stop being the border.

I breeze right through the Bolivia side and am very curious as to what will happen at the Peru side when I ask for more time in the country.

When it is my turn to talk to the Peruvian border guard, I tell him that if it is at all possible, I would like “tres” (three) more months. He asked what I am doing in Peru. “Writing and studying Spanish” I tell him. “That is a lot of time in Peru” he grills me. I just smile, silently hoping for at least two more months.

“OK,” he tells me with a grin as he stamps my passport. “I am giving you six more months.”

I smile, feeling quite shocked. I wonder if he thought I asked for six (seis) months. I really don’t expect to stay that much longer, but wonder if the universe is telling me something … if perhaps I am not leaving the country as soon as I think I am.

A few hours later, after a one-hour layover in Puno, my bus is underway to Cusco. We arrive in Cusco at around 5:00 a.m., and after some shopping in town, I make it back to Calca in the early afternoon. I am utterly exhausted and ready for a nap.

Changing Seasons

On February 25, 2015, I was out by the river and noted that the river was higher than I had ever seen it before. I decided to take a lot of photos to document the dramatic changes that happen during rainy season.

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This is a photo taken from the patio area just outside my kitchen window. This is the field that was planted on January 9, 2015, just about six and a half weeks earlier. It is gorgeous, and is right outside my kitchen.

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Another view from just outside of my kitchen.

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Looking up at a canyon on Pitusiray, there is now a waterfall coming down that crack. It has been there since some time in December.

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Chuck comes outside to greet me and then quickly turns around to leave.

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He is more fascinated by sounds on the street.

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I am outside, preparing to walk toward the river.

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The sun is gorgeous today, but about 80 percent of the days since mid December have been very cold and cloudy.

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Nicolas recently dug up and replanted most of the iris bulbs in the flower garden.

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Looking back toward the house as seen from the flower garden.

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The gate to the river playground is very hard to open now because the wood is so swollen from all the moisture.

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This is the river today. It is the absolute highest that I have ever seen. If you remember previous photos from other posts, the dam only had a small waterfall coming over the middle part, and on low water days, there were lots of exposed rocks in the middle of that small waterfall. Now, the water is a few feet higher, and is raging over the entire width of the dam.

Down below, there are no walkways along the pool where I went swimming in December.

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A closeup of the right side of the dam. There is even a lot of water pouring through underneath the platform.

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A closeup of the far side. If you notice, you can barely see the top part of those words “Obra de plan Meriss Inka”, and the water is very close to the bridge.

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Zooming in a little closer to the far wall.

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Looking at the water raging underneath the bridge. I would never dare venture out there right now.

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And another perspective with plants in the foreground.

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Meanwhile, looking up at Pitusiray, the peaks are buried in clouds and you can see glimmers of white up there.

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Another photo of the river.

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And the grass in the river playground is very tall and lush.

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The cornfield across the raging river had been harvested, bulls were used to eat up all the remaining corn stalks, and they recently planted a crop that looks like wheat.

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Another glance at the sun.

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And another glance at the corn field just above the dam.

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I just trimmed my bangs and they are a little short. I am feeling very peaceful.

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A slightly different angle.

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The clouds have cleared over Pitusiray, and it looks white and wet up there.

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And another closeup of the words on the far wall. You can barely see the tops of the words. These words used to be a few feet above water level.

A Very Local Festival

As I arrived home from the market on March 1, 2015, I noticed that they were busy setting up for some type of festival. I saw my neighbor helping out, and asked him when it was going to be.

“Today,” he responded. “You should come and join us.”

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This is right outside of my front door. They had dug a deep post hole in the edge of that dirt road and were planting a large tree that was cut from somewhere and brought into town for the festival.

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Meanwhile, I noticed a few men replacing the awning above Maria’s little store just down the street from me.

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And this tent awning was erected between Maria’s store and that funny tree in the road.

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And this covered stage had been erected in front of the mule monument, directly across from my bedroom. That is my neighbor there in his red and black striped shirt. Those are some very big speakers aimed right at my bedroom window.

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My neighbor in his striped shirt. He is a very nice man. I think his name is Carmelo.

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Meanwhile they are still adjusting the position of this tree. They have filled the top with balloons, plastic colanders, plastic buckets, a plastic stool, some colorful women’s woven fabric, and an old woolen blanket. I am really curious.

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The men support the trunk as they try to position the tree.

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Soon, they decide to turn the tree so that it faces a different direction, making that wool blanket more visible to me.

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Using ropes to twist and turn the trunk.

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A view of those menacing speakers.

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A man is hooking up the wiring to those speakers, doing so from behind.

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A closeup of the top of that tree.

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And another of my neighbor.

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Still working on Maria’s awning. I imagine she will make lots of money tonight from selling to the festival participants.

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Dropping a tarp behind to protect the speakers from threatening rain.

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Lots of kids hanging around, watching.

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And another family about thirty feet from my front door.

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Kids playing on the street.

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A woman bringing a shovel filled with hot coals for her cooking fire. She has a barbeque set up, and is preparing to cook and sell food.

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A man and his dog walking by.

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More local people stirring around.

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A typical local woman.

Within a half hour of me taking these photos, I decided to take a nap in preparation for a long night. But withing ten minutes of my head hitting the pillow, the speakers were cranked up and the extremely loud music began. It lasted until the wee hours of the morning.

The place was not very busy during the early afternoon. But by evening, there were several hundred people partying out in front of my house, and a live band was playing very loudly with a very monotone repetitive song. About thirty or forty people were dancing around the trunk of that tree. Among those dancing I saw Maria, the lady who runs the store where I buy eggs and other miscellaneous things.

It looked like a fun evening, but I was busy and could not handle the noisy energy. I watched movies in the kitchen (where it was quietest) for a while, and eventually went to bed with ear plugs, and with my pillow pulled tightly around my ears. I didn’t get much sleep at all, but was proud of myself for maintaining a giggly attitude all night.

Early in the morning, at around 5:30 a.m., I heard men talking and joking loudly outside. I stepped outside for a look, and three men were sitting up on the stage, with sleeping bags still wrapped around themselves. Soon, they cranked up the music again, turning up the volume to the ear-shattering setting.

Later, I went out to run errands, hoping to avoid the noise, but it was still going when I returned. I was quite relieved when they turned off the music and dismantled the speakers just before noon.

Passing Of An Old Friend

It has been expected for a long time. My friend Dell has been sniffling with mysterious viruses for a few years now … but all the therapeutic scans for viruses and malware could neither detect nor correct what was inevitable. He was growing very old and his days in my service were numbered. He first joined my side as I prepared to return to school back in 2005, and has tirelessly served me without fail … never complaining and always doing his best to be there for me.

Just over a year ago, while I was in Iquitos, Dell’s visual skills began to fritz out, but then luckily began to function again. Later, in April 2014, after being hibernated and wrapped in plastic for three months, the jungle humidity overwhelmed my faithful little companion and his vision again began to flake out. But what really made him struggle was the water that I spilled on him during a boat ride. He caught a very bad cold, and barely survived; but he lovingly forgave me without judgment. The little guy’s visual acuity never fully recovered, but he fought valiantly and continued to serve with trust and courage.

Somewhere over the majestic Andes mountains, in May, as we flew from Iquitos to Lima and then to Cusco, my little companion suffered a bout with altitude sickness, and his keyboard began to suffer nerve problems such that the signals for various critical keyboard connections would no longer fire correctly. Then, as old age often does, he began to make funny noises when his USB connections were wiggled. Something was just not quite right with him, but still, he continued to serve with dedication.

But it was not until November, 2014, while Jeanette and I were at Lake Titicaca, that his core systems began to require hospice and intensive care. One morning, at our hotel room in Copacabana, Bolivia, Dell went almost completely blind, and was soon hooked up to life support, requiring all kinds of external wires — external monitors and external input devices — just to maintain his ability to communicate. But still, he just kept serving.

Meanwhile, still weak and almost blind, Dell helped to give birth to his adopted son, Lenovo, faithfully donating all of his memory and stored knowledge to his adopted prodigy. Dell did not even care that Lenovo came from a different genetic background. He freely shared everything he had, passing on his wisdom with pure unconditional love.

Dell served me well, even while in intensive hospice care, right up until the very end. As a final act of uncomplaining service, he entertained my dear friend Sufi and I with one final movie on the evening of my sixtieth birthday … just last Tuesday … the magical day in which I completed six amazing decades on this planet.

Early Wednesday morning, March 11, 2015, I went out to the kitchen to check on my trusty companion. Old age was just too much for him. When I gently caressed his power button, all he could do was to emit a high pitched warbling screeching sound.

My faithful friend is no longer able to communicate in any way. As an act of mercy, I have decided to let him rest, no longer requiring him to serve me in any way.

Dell is survived by his magical adopted son, Lenovo … and is also survived by the thousands of pages of blog entries that he diligently helped me to create. He earned a forever-place in my heart, and will never be forgotten.

In his “Last Will and Testament”, Dell asked that his body be donated to a local service technician in Cusco. He hopes that his parts might still somehow serve someone in need.

Viewings for his surviving friends will be scheduled, by appointment, during the next week. Dell will be available for remote viewings as well, for those who know how to astral project (or use Skype).

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A photo of Dell, with his external monitor and keyboard on the right side, just after he left his tired shell. If you look closely at the external monitor, you can see that it is no longer able to find any type of conscious signal.

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And this is Dell as he would like to be remembered … still looking young and strong, with that Skype headset hanging over the front of his monitor. He was so very good at communicating.

Summary

Yippee … I am finally up to date with all of my photo posts. Sometime in the near future, I hope to write a short series of blogs that highlight the main events in what has been an amazing healing ride over the last eight months … and little Lenovo is proving to be a fast learner.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved