On April 22, 2012, my dear friend Pyper flew all the way from Alasks to spend a magical week with me, enjoying chocolate ceremonies, exploring colorful cultural adventures, and best of all giggling, giggling, and more giggling. The following is part one of our adventure — an adventure that took us all over the highways, from the airport in Guatemala City, to Lake Atitlan, and to Xela — an adventure that found us riding chicken buses and chicken boats, exploring markets, women’s textile weaving cooperatives, and hiking here, there, and everywhere.
As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.
CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE.
From The Airport To Beyond
On Saturday, April 21, I took a chicken bus to Antigua, the old capitol city of Guatemala, where I spent the night so I could be close enough to meet my dear friend Pyper at the airport. At about the same time, she began her long flight with many hops and layovers, leaving Juneau Alaska on her own adventure.
Sunday morning, I took an airport shuttle to the Guatemala City airport, arriving perhaps thirty minutes before Pyper’s plane landed.
Pyper took this photo as she circled above Guatemala City, preparing to land. As you can see, Guatemala City, the capitol city of Guatemala (often called Guate) is spread out, nestled in a high-mountain valley. Today was a particularly smoky day, as often happens in March and April when sugar cane farmers on the coast begin to burn their canes.
Shortly after landing, Pyper and I connected in front of the airport, giggled and hugged, and then took a taxi for a ten minute ride to a nearby bus stop where chicken buses from all over northwestern Guatemala congegrate.
At first we got on a bus that would take us straight to San Marcos (ten minutes away anyway) … but we soon giggled and switched buses, climbing into one that would instead take us to Panajachel. The ride would be about an hour shorter, plus the change of plans would give us a chance to do a little souvenir shopping before taking an hour-long boat ride to San Marcos.
This is the first photo we took together, with the two of us gigging in the front seat of a chicken bus (old refurbished school bus), seated right behind the driver.
Seconds later, Pyper is giggling as she spots several goats wandering around the street — right in the middle of Guatemala City.
This photo shows a view of a typical broken-windshield chicken bus while showing the goats out on the street.
Soon, one goat was checking out a large bag of garbage.
I can only assume this must be the goat’s owner. At least, I cannot imagine a perfect stranger walking up to milk one of the goats.
Oh wait, we are in Guatemala. Yes, I can imagine that.
One of the goats checking out a potentially-edible substance at the base of the steps for our bus.
This is the first of many photos that Pyper took as we rode in the chicken bus from Guatemala City to Panajachel. The ride is just under three hours, with many short stops to pick up and unload passengers along the way.
This is very typical architecture for this area.
Some beautiful pine trees along the roadside, with an old unfinished building hiding in the shadows below.
A very typical scene in the mountainous agricultural regions of Guatemala.
Following a tuk-tuk through Chimaltenango. Tuk-tuks are three-wheeled motorcycle taxis. you can usually squeeze three people on the back bench (if you exhale first) and often one person sits on a tiny wooden ledge on either side of the driver in the front seat. They can get quite crowded, and are very bumpy and noisy.
A beautifully decorated chicken bus driving by in the opposite direction.
Looking out the door as we stop to pick up a passenger. A Mayan couple stands on the street.
More typical countryside farms and homes.
And another one.
Very common building style. Unreinforced cuts in a hill to build a road. On top are wooden tree posts with corregated metal fencing. Behind are unpainted block structures, square and basic. The top of the roof on the left has rebar sticking up into the air, indicating that the owner plans to someday add another level on top when he has more money, time, or needs more space etc…
Road construction on the Inter-America Highway The right two lanes are currently unoccupied, while the left two lanes are two-way traffic. Note that there are no signs or barriers to prevent people from driving into the deep ruts that separate the two lanes …
Another typical farm view.
A very typical way in which hillsides are cut away when roads are built. It is construction methods like this that create all of the mudslides and rockslides that invariably happen during huge storms. But there is no money for more permanant building methods.
A beautiful farm on the side of a hill.
Another cut-away mountain along the highway … just waiting for heavy rains.
Another very typical scene in the populated areas along the highway. Note the political signs painted onto the hardened dirt wall.
A beautiful view of the Inter-America highway as it winds through the mountainous countryside of Guatemala.
After about two and a half hours of driving, we stop briefly at a place called “Los Encuentros”, which is the name of a highway intersection where the road to Panajachel and Lake Atitlan intersect with the highway.
Our bus stopped hear briefly, and many different vendors suddenly hopped on to sell various types of foods. When pyper saw someone selling French fries, she had to have some.
Me, holding Pyper’s yummy (well sort of) bag of French Fries, already drenched in ketchup. We shared them.
A view after we turned off the main highway and began to drive toward the lake.
Of particular interest in this photo is the Mayan man at the center, dressed in full traditional clothing. Not many of the men wear traditional clothing anymore. This man wears a skirt-like cloth over the top of very colorful pants. When it is warmer, some men omit the pants and wear just the knee-length skirt-like cloth.
Driving through a typical small community on our way toward the lake.
“The Great Viewpoint” restaurant. A small restaurant that we pass by. On a clear day, you would be able to see the lake below and several volcanoes in the distance.
Beginning to descend the hill, on our way to Solola, the capitol of this “departmento” — which is the name given to major regional division within Guatemala, literally translated it is “department”, and functionally in United States terminology, a department is like a small state, or a very large county.
Continuing to wind down the mountainside. Palm trees like this are not very common in this region.
More typical views as we descend through a populated regions.
Driving into “Solola” – the capitol city of the Departmento of Solola.
Looking through our cracked windshield at another Mayan man dressed in traditional clothing.
Another beautiful view of the colorful flare of small cities like Solola.
The Panajachel Market
After finishing our chicken-bus ride to the bottom of the mountain, all the way to Panajachel, we got off near the large indoor market. I took Pyper inside for a quick tour, but since it was Sunday, most shops were closed.
This photo is taken from the top of a little ramp that leads down into the market.
One thing that Pyper noticed almost immediately, is that many of the locals drink their soft drinks from glass bottles. They are much cheaper than the plastic ones, and much more environmentally friendly. Disposal of plastic bottles is a real problem in this part of the world.
A look inside one of the small stores that line the outside boundaries of this indoor market. They are very space efficient, and if you don’t see something, they might have it hidden in a cabinet or box under all the bulk goods stacked in the middle.
A small “carnicero” or “butcher shop” at the back of the market. In this part of the world, the meats are just hung out in the warm air.
A small fruit vendor on the street, just outside the market entrance. Yum yum … watermelons, papayas, apples, grapes, bananas, cantelopes, pineapples, oranges, mangos, pears, … and the list goes on.
Pyper grinning while satisfying her hunger on a slice of watermelon. The lady behind the counter cut it for her.
Exploring Panajachel
After leaving the market, we spent a couple of hours walking down the main street leading to the lake. Of course, Pyper stopped to buy several souvenirs, and the local vendors swarmed her with “good deals” as soon as they realized she had money with an intention to buy.
I am not sure, but I think this is either a health clinic or a doctor’s office. Pyper loved the playground equipment in front. This man is dressed very typically for a man not wearing traditional clothing.
Exploring the wonders of how different things are in this part of the world. I love this old gate with the beautiful flowers above. Note the street and the walls — all very typical of this area.
A typical street that leads toward the Panajachel boat dock. Note the reddish covers on the storm gutter on the left. During my first month in San Marcos, I slipped part way into one of these large open slots and skinned the side of my foot. Ouch :D
Another common site in some of the nicer areas — razor wire to keep people out. Burglaries are quite common here, given the disparity between the rich and the very poor.
Also note the mish mash of power wires etc… This is very typical.
Oh, and how can you miss that brilliant blue gate. I love it.
Another typical wall and gate with flowers to make it gorgeous.
Not the most flattering photo of me, being tired and dirty after two days of traveling, but I love the photo anyway.
Pyper’s First Boat Ride In Guatemala
After finishing a whirlwind walk through Panajachel, we caught the first lancha (boat) that would take us to San Marcos.
Tired but giggling faces — Pyper and Brenda.
Many nicer homes line the shores of various parts of Lake Atitlan — most owned by foreigners or rich Guatemalans. Some are even owned by famous movie stars or drug lords.
This is a typical fancy home along the way. This one, like many such homes, is threatened by the rising water levels.
Pulling into Santa Cruz — our first stop in this forty-five minute (average) boat ride. The orange building centered above the boats on the left is “La Iguana Perdida” (The lost Iguana) — a very popular hostel for travelers. The actual town of Santa Cruz is high up on the hill. You can see part of the town here.
All of the homes and businesses along here are being threatened by water levels.
Looking back after leaving Santa Cruz — beautiful mountains and homes.
The boat dock for a home high up on the hillside. This little hut used to be way above the water level.
Looking ahead, on the right, at the “Casa Del Mundo” … one of the most famous and nicest hotels on the lake. The lower levels used to have beautiful swimming terraces and a few rooms. Those areas are all under water. The upper areas are beautiful. I have assisted in a couple of chocolate ceremonies at this hotel, and I love it here … peaceful, beautiful views, etc.
This hotel is right before our second main stop, the little town of Jaibalito.
Some nicer homes right before the Jaibalito dock.
More beautiful scenery near Jaibalito. Of interest is the fact that the very center of this photo is the mouth of a flood channel — right where all of the beautiful flowers are growing. Two years ago, after Tropical Storm Agatha, this area was barren and dead, freshly torn earth covered by large rocks. What a difference two years makes.
This is what is left of what used to be a beautiful new boat dock in Jaibalito.
In this photo, our boat is pulling up to the present-day dock in Jaibalito. The town is up the hill … up the steps and beyond.
Another beautiful home as we approach our next stop at the town of “Tzununa”.
A view behind as we approach Tzununa.
The small town of Tzununa, up the canyon on the left.
Another interesting home between Tzununa and San Marcos.
Looking back toward Tzununa. Next stop San Marcos, only five minutes away.
Exploring San Marcos
A few minutes later, our boat stops and the San Marcos boat dock. We giggle as we pay the driver and begin to walk up the path.
Me, on dry land, just after leaving the San Marcos boat dock (which is just behind Pyper about 100 feet).
Pyper, skillfully taking a photo of herself, standing on the ground of San Marcos.
As you walk up the path toward town, this side path is the first main “road” that goes west, parallel to the lake. Just down this path is “Las Piramides Del Ka” — The Pyramids — where I spent four months of my life only two years ago. Further down this path are beautiful lake views.
The beautiful gate of a small kindergarten/pre-school facility … along the lower part of the path leading from the boat dock up into town.
This little sign forest is intended to reduce the confusion of tourists who do not know the area. If you ask me, it makes me a little psychotic, LOL. Most of these signs are pointing in the general direction of a path that will take you to another path, where, if see more signs and turn the right way, you might find what you are looking for.
I love it. This is about half way up the path from the boat dock to the center of town.
A few of the Mayan Calendar signs painted on the walls of the Hotel Paco Real, just below where I live.
One of the hotel rooms, less than 100 feet from my balcony.
Brenda’s Apartment
Yippee … we are home … at least at my home.
This is a hammock on the porch of the tiny one-bedrom studio apartment that is right next door to me. It is usually empty, so I can occasionally use the hammock.
This is the view from my apartment balcony, looking down at the banana tree, the Hotel Paco Real, and the path below — a path that leads down to the boat dock. The tree on the left is an avocado tree, as are most of the trees in the background.
My favorite little Aloe Vera plant, as documented in a recent blog titled “An Aloe Vera Adventure.”
This gorgeous plant is in full bloom, with beautiful orange blossoms.
The Path To Chocolate
Shortly after freshening up, Pyper and I walk out to Keith’s house. He is just finishing up a Sunday afternoon chocolate ceremony. I want to introduce her.
This is an empty lot with a gorgeous view of the San Pedro volcano — a view that we pass on the way to go see Keith.
After a ten minute walk, this is the steep road that leads back down to the lake. Keith’s home is the first gate on the left (you can’t see it from here).
A giggling photo at the top of the road to Keith’s house. After introductions, Keith goes to dinner with us. After fun dinner and conversation, Keith introduces Pyper to a little subconscious journeying…
Day Two – An Adventure In The Mountains
On Monday morning, April 23, Pyper and I prepare for our first big adventure. We are going to travel with my young Mayan friend Isaias, first going across the lake back to Panajachel, and later, riding chicken buses, minivans, and pickup trucks back up into the mountains to spend time with his teacher. Isaias is studying to be a Mayan Sacerdote (Priest). Many westerners might call him a Mayan Shaman.
We begin the day with a relaxing and restful morning at my house.
Yummy – a breakfast for two … oatmeal mixed with traditonally processed Guatemalan cacao (the name of the chocolate plant) … topped with fresh mango.
We are eating on my balcony, looking out over the beautiful view while listening to the chirping birds.
Pyper is fascinated by my gorgeous flowering aloe vera plant, standing on top of the table to get a birds-eye view of the flowers from above.
A side view of the flowers with banana and avocado trees in the background.
Another top-down aloe vera view.
Pyper having more acrobatic fun with my aloe vera.
Love that in-the-moment, playful, silly grin.
My daredevil giggling friend. It is not as easy at it looks. I am standing part-way down a very steep flight of sharp stone steps that drops about twelve feet. One slip and …
If you click on this thumbnail image and blow it up to larger size, you can see a couple of men with redish/orangish shirts, climbing high in these distant avacodo trees, harvesting avocados from the treetops.
These trees are a couple hundred feet down the path from my balcony.
And We’re Off … First Stop Panajachel
After meeting at my house and having a delightful discussion about Pyper’s Mayan Calendar signs, we walk down to the boat dock to begin our journey.
The weather is beautiful today. Most of the smoke from yesterday is long gone. The volcanoes are spectacular.
By the way, this is Isaias.
Pyper and I on the dock … beautiful volcanoes in the distance.
Looking to the east. Panajachel is at the base of the far mountains.
And looking more to the west … a view of the San Pedro volcano. The town of San Pedro is at lake level on the far right.
This little duck is unique to Lake Atitlan. It used to be an endangered species and was only found in the San Juan area. After laws were passed to make it illegal to kill these ducks for food, they are beginning to flourish all over the lake. These ducks are black in color.
Our boat is here and it is time to board. Next stop, Panajachel.
One last photo from the San Marcos boat dock.
Isaias and Brenda in the boat. I laugh at the life jackets overhead. These boats can often have 25 to 30 people on them, and there are rarely more than 10 life jackets.
I love these Mayan canoes. It is quite the contrast to see such humble people, with so few worldly goods, going about their daily life in front of such western displays of prosperity (the rich homes).
Another beautiful view with a canoe added in for special effects.
More fancy homes along the shoreline.
Zooming along, almost to Panajachel. I love the bubbles of spray thrown into the air. Such a magical addition to a beautiful scene.
Just in case it is not obvious, left to right is Brenda, Isaias, and Pyper.
Giggling Pyper, having the adventure of a lifetime.
Looking back at our boat captain as we approach the Panajachel dock.
Turning the camera around to the front of the boat. The young man at the very front is the captain’s helper. He handles the ropes when tying up to docks etc…, and he collects the money at intermediate stops.
Of all the times I have been to Panajachel, I do not believe I have ever taken a photo of the Panajachel (Pana for short) boat dock. This is Pyper standing in front of our boat that just arrived. The San Pedro volcano is on the far side of the lake, behind the only tree. San Marcos is on the far side of the lake, behind the little pumphouse at the far right of the photo (not visible in the thumbnail image).
A view looking up from the boat dock, climbing a steep hill before hitting the streets of Panajachel. At the top of this hill are tuk-tuks waiting to take people where they want to go. I almost always walk. It is only a ten minute walk from here to the bank.
The young man with Isaias is another Mayan Sacerdote. He got on the boat in Santa Cruz, and Isaias introduced him to us. He seems like a beautiful young man.
Some very unique street art on the walls as we walk through Panajachel. Isaias has an errand to run, and we will eat lunch, before heading for the mountains.
An old church near the market. A little tuk-tuk in front.
Same church without the tuk-tuk.
Eating a yummy meal at the market in Panajachel, in a little “comedor” (kitchen). This entire meal of fried chicken, drink included, cost 15 Quetzales (about $2.00 US).
Off To The Mountains
After a chicken bus ride followed by a minivan ride, we end up in the back of a little pickup truck, headed into the mountains to visit Isaias’s teacher — a beautiful Mayan Priestess woman.
Isaias and Pyper, hanging on the the back of the pickup truck as we drive up the canyon.
Looking back at a small pueblo (town) where we boarded the pickup truck.
A house along the way.
Isaias and me in the back of the pickup. Is it me, or does he seem bored with me? LOL
A house along the way.
Beautiful scenery as we head for the hills.
A baby corn (maize) field with a typical farmhouse behind.
Continuing up the beautiful road.
Approaching the small community where Isaias’s teacher lives.
A beautiful home along the way.
Another home in the midst of farmland and beautiful views.
I love Pyper’s contagious smile … her inner child excitement is about to burst.
Isaias says hello.
I love the unique flavor of this beautiful culture … and their way of life.
Another magical mountain farm.
Some of these photos are slightly out of order. In this, we are back on the dirt roads. (I tried to systematically merge two sets of photos from two cameras).
I love these mountain scenes. What a peaceful and quiet place to live.
Almost there …
A young boy playing in the field (behind the telephone pole. Many of these children have never seen and/or interracted with anyone outside of their village.
Gobble gobble … did someone say turkey? The farm animals run wild and free here.
One final turn in the road … almost there.
At last … the home of Isaias’s beautiful teacher.
The Ceremony
Unbeknownst to any of us, Isaias’s teacher has decided that this training ceremony (his second-to-last before graduation) will take place up in the mountains. Soon, the four of us are hiking up a narrow trail leading up into the hills. We end up at a large rock that is a sacred ceremonial site from ancient times. Isaias chooses to do the ceremony on top of the rock, with a beautiful view of the valley.
Isaias’s teacher unpacks supplies for the fire ceremony.
Isaias and his teacher beginning to make preparations. The fire will be in the black charred circle in front. You can see the valley in the distance below. What a beautiful sacred space for a ceremony.
In honor of the sacred space, we do not take any photos during the ceremony.
A view of the valley as we begin to walk back down the trail after the ceremony is complete.
Walking back down the trail, nearing civilization. I love that cloud in the center background. Yup, that is me in the white pants, purple sweater, and wearing the backpack.
Looking back up the trail at a very interesting field. Lots of different rocks and piles of rocks.
It appears that a local farmer has decorated the trail near his house with plastic streamers.
I love this fascinating glowing cloud as it towers above the humble farm houses in the foreground. These people live in very humble circumstances. Yes, that is an outhouse in front.
One last view of Isaias and his teacher walking on the trail in front of us.
Off To Feria
After finishing the fire ceremony, we again hop on the back of a pickup truck with a group of school youth. Isaias tells us that most of them have never seen a foreigner like us. Soon, we switch to a chicken bus … and then a tuk-tuk … arriving back in San marcos late that evening.
After a so-so meal of street pizza, Pyper and I are fascinated as we observe what appears to be a beauty-pageant of sorts. But it is not a contest, and is instead more of an exhibition, with women from all over this part of guatemala dressed in traditional costume with fascinating head wear.
This is a grouip of young women who were posing for someone else. I love their costumes.
Another view of the same women from slightly further away.
A few women with fascinating carved wooden crowns.
A few other women in their traditional clothing.
Two young women posing for photos.
But these are my absolute favorites. I love the intricately carved wooden crowns that these young women are wearing.
After the show is over, Pyper and I walk out to the street and enjoy browsing through a little of the town Feria (the annual town festival).
I bought a bag of these very interesting cookie-like, doughnut-like biscuits. The local people love them, and primarily use them to dip into their coffee. Not being a coffee drinker, I found them dry and bland, but I did somewhat enjoy them for the next week or so.
Temporary Wrap Up
And thus ends the first two days of my magical giggling journey with Pyper. Tomorrow, a whole new adventure begins, but for now, it is time to sleep (in spite of the very loud music that plays till early morning hours, blasting from the basketball court). I love Guatemala.
Copyright © 2012 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved